Nha Trang

Having left Mui Ne I have now moved up a couple of inches up the map to Nha Trang. I had hoped to arrive here yesterday, not that it matters that much, but I have had to negotiate a strong headwind all the way which reduced my progress considerably. At its worst I was struggling to make 6kms per hour for a lot of legwork. No matter, since this was a really good leg otherwise. Leaving Mui Ne the land is almost semi arid with dunes extending some way inland and cacti growing. Bougonvilia  (I know its the wrong spelling, but the spell check keeps coming up with Yugoslavia!) grows along the roadside and there is a shrub or tree which gives off a scent that reminds me of Provance. Even the light is like the South of France. Gradually the land becomes more fertile and you cycle through paddy fields with palm groves in the distance and mountains beyond. Its quite beautiful. Along the route there are glimpses of the coast and of course the numerous villages and towns along 1A which is the main route to Hanoi.

A day out and I met two French fellers cycling towards Mui Ne. Really decent blokes who told me that they were spending 8 months cycling around South East Asia, having arrived in Hanoi, brought two bikes and set off. They did take a bus for the mid section of the route as they have a timescale to be in the south. The following day, two more cyclists, again heading south; its like rush hour!!!! Laura and Brant were from the USA and from their home in California (Big Sur) which is a terrific location, they cycled across the States to New York, a journey they completed in 6 weeks and is what most Americans consider to be a right of passage. They kindly gave me the heads up on an alternative route into Nha Trang. This route kicks in about 30 kms from the city and is effectively a dual carriageway, brand new, with hardly any traffic but the most superb sea views which was great to cycle this morning. To anyone contemplating cycling north, this is a gem of a route into Nha Trang. Brant is a very keen cyclist and both had custom made bikes for the trip. He was well versed with Thorn and took pictures of Cynth. We both had Schwalbe Marathon XR's tyres which are no longer made, probably because they are so good. Brant bought his set second hand and hardly any wear. Come on Schwalbe, get manufacturing these tyres again, your replacements arn't a touch on the XR's.

Its always good to meet cyclists on the road, swap stories and discuss your bikes; those four were the first cyclists I have met I think since Turkey, but the South East Asian market is growing in popularity as a cycling destination, so if any of you guys I met cycling along the Danube are reading this, then believe me if it's a possibility, then go for it. The two French fellers brought their bikes for $250 each and both said they were great for what they wanted.

Life along the road continues to be interesting and fun. Truck drivers, shop keepers, road workers and blokes sitting around in the numerous cafes continue to chaik, shout and wave. Pull into a cafe and they all gather round while you explain what you would like to drink; the women are great, always smiling, chatting and are very tactile.I found this in Mui Ne, while all the testosterone fuelled 20 somethings were demonstrating their physical aplomb either by exercising on the beach or kike surfing; I just chatted to the girls with very positive results. There are loads of cafes, not sure how any of them make a profit. I generally like to get an hour or two under my belt before a pit stop, and the day I left Mui Ne I did just that and pulled into a cafe where 6 blokes were consuming Tiger lager at an alarming rate, well for 8am it appeared that way. They insisted I sit with them and would not think of me leaving until I had drunk 3 cans of lager with them; so I did. They were also ripping a crab apart so again insisted I help them demolish that as well. The thing about cycling is that you don't know whats going to happen next. It's a gimme here that quite a few scooter riders will come alongside and slap you on the back by way of encouragement; this can be a bit dicey if your not expecting it. Also the kids love hi 5's while you are in motion and hold their arms out. Lads also like to race me and overtake before heading off a sidestreet then look at me and laugh as they head away. And yes I do let them win. On one occasion I stopped next to a collection and distribution plant where dragon fruit was the product in question. Dragon Fruit is a mainly pink coloured circular fruit with pink 'fingers' coming off. Hence the name I guess. The inside contains a white coloured fruit with black seeds, very good to eat. The owners daughter was called Anne who could speak very good English; having met her mother and co-workers Anne then gave me 4 of these fruit to take with me; about 2 kilos in weight. This just demonstrates how generous these people are.

Hotels are plentiful and cheap, rarely away from cities do you pay more that $10 for a room which is a double with shower and a/c. I stayed at one on the second night where my room cantilevered over the ocean on both sides. So at night you could listen to the swell and watch the fishing boats' wonderful. I usually eat street food or local restaurants. For breakfast, stop off at roadside where you get a warm bagette, two fried eggs, sausage meat, veg and spicey sauce for 50 cents!!! Thats about 30p and its usually very good. In the evening its pot luck, but again select something usually with noodles or rice, with water buffalo as the meat, and of course seafood and fish of all descriptions. The girls often bring me crayfish or something else off the menu with a sauce and sit with me showing how to extract the meat. Of course, its quite usual to spend the odd night, or part of it, on the loo so the following day you feel a bit under the weather and not really looking forward to getting on the bike. On days like that I think about why I'm doing this; for kids with cancer. Bet they would swap their situation for mine at an instant; so I get myself into gear, give myself a verbal lashing and kick up the backside and start pedalling.

They make coffee with condensed milk over here. Its very good, not that I need any incentive to demolish a can of that. Mum and I would sit down with a can of condensed milk and two spoons and go through it like a dose of salts.

Of course spending so much time in the saddle, the old tackle gets a bit sore. I have tried a variation of clothing and even resorted to a condom to provide a bit of relief but all to little avail. So now I find the best is to flip the tackle occasionally from one side to the other. Its ok. Now I have a mate called John Stamp who I think usually reads these at breakfast while getting his laughing gear around a large danish. His reposte (and he has one for most occasions) would be 'Bloody hell Trevelyan, half an inch less and you'd be a stewardess!'John and I go back more than 40 years, I think Wichita Lineman was charting so must have been around '69. He likes nothing better at a dinner party to regale what I looked like and my musical taste at the time. So a description of me with shoulder length Beatle haircut with bright shirt, flares and hipsters grooving to T.Rex, Mungo Jerry and Cream is portrayed to the dining guests; fortunately there are no photos. Janet, his wife is amazing; how she puts up with him I don't know, she is a superb, cook and hostess and when I needed help both of them were right there no questions asked. Its something I am appreciative of even now. Great mates.

Well I see by the date on my watch that Christmas is rapidly approaching. Not that it feels like it here, or you would really know it. I'm surprised that shops are selling xmas trees and tinsel. So to get into the festive spirit I bought some tinsel and decorated Cynth; photos on the side. Looks a real picture eh! Not sure where I will be on the day; because of the headwind I cant see me making it to Ha Long Bay or even close. It doesn't matter because the weather up there isnt that great at the moment. Hanoi is only 20 degrees positively shivering!

I know at this time of year you all get bombarded with begging letters from charities. I'm also aware that everyone is tightening the belt with such an uncertain future ahead. However, if I could simply ask that for anyone with a few bob to spare feel so inclined to lob it in the direction of Children with Cancer UK  it would absolutely make my xmas. I hope to blog again before xmas, but in the event I don't may I wish everyone a very happy and peaceful xmas.

A juddering halt in Paradise!

From Saigon to Hanoi the route is entirely Highway 1 and extends for between 1,800 - 1,900 kilometers depending on which road sign you select; it's still a long way. Cycling out of Saigon was very straightforward, in fact it could not have been easier. Far simpler than Bangkok or Istanbul. As always the locals ride by on scooters and look with mild astonishment or, as is more usual make some crack or gesture and say hello. So no surprise when a scooter pulls up alongside and the feller starts a conversation in English. He insisted on buying me a pepsi and during this interlude he tells me his name is Parat; he is 82 and looks 60 and used to work for an American Company as an interpreter. He took me to meet his family; we had iced coffee and then a quick trip through his village before saying goodbye as we rejoined Highway 1. As I have often  mentioned before, these people are very friendly and want to converse with visitors.

It took 2 days to reach Pham Thiet, a very attractive small city. I found a decent place to stay for the night before venturing out for something to eat. Parat had told me to visit Mui Ne which is a resort beach about 20 kilometers from Phan Thiet. The following morning, following a quick visit to the hospital, I followed the signs for Mui Ne. Having crested a hill, I freewheeled down and in front was an expanse of ocean: the South China Sea (Pacific). I immediately parked Cynth against a coconut tree facing the ocean and slapped the saddle in delight. I felt a wave of elation, which just took over. I suppose its the realisation that I had cycled from the Atlantic to the Pacific. When I started this journey, I didn't dare look as far as Vietnam; it seemed an endless destination, but here I was watching the surf crash onto the golden sand. It didn't take much for me to hit the surf and go for a swim. The water was like a hot bath and I just felt so good. It was one of those moments that would have been great to share with someone, I felt a real sense of achievement and just let the waves wash over me. There are loads of resorts and hotels extending along the bay; this is a quality resort location certainly international standard. The beach is sandy and just about everyone is kite surfing. It looks sensational; far more fun than wind surfing. I am staying at the Green Coconut Resort, not expensive and have a bamboo chalet with veranda and ocean view. Palm trees everywhere; swimming pool, restaurant, bar and private beach. Believe me its paradise; the weather is perfect, mid 80's with a warm easterly wind, no humidity. Definately worth a google! I was speaking to an Aussie guy who owns one of the kite schools and he told me that this place was gradually getting recognised and that tourism was improving but that there was definate mileage in tapping the European market. Currently the majority of tourists are Russian! Now these guys rarely speak to you; some do of course. The French then form the second largest tourist community, and like the Russians, they prefer to keep there own council. So if you are anything other than Russian or French (who don't seem to speak to each other either) then you hope to bump into Brits or Aussies if you want a few laughs. And thankfully, there are a few of them around.

I had been struggling somewhat with energy levels since arriving in Vietnam, much of which I put down to the humidity. Arriving in Mui Ne I was literally running on empty; had nothing left in the tank at all and felt exhausted. A mate of mine suggested I had travel fatigue, well whatever, and despite a couple days rest in Saigon, I decided I needed at least a week beach bumming. My enforced stay was also influenced by the fact that on my way to get some dinner in Phan Thiet, I was bitten by a dog. This necessitated the visit to the aforementioned hospital, and despite my rabies booster, the delightful Dr was very keen to fill me full of needles. So I have a course of 5 injections; 3 of which I could get while in Mui Ne and the other two on the way north. For my second jab, I was invited into the surgery; along the wall were nine chairs occupied by Vietnamese women and children; I started chatting to them and it was great, a ready audience to see the needle go in. Fortunately, she stuck it in my arm not my backside. Well the combination of surf, sun and cold beer seems to be working and the batteries seem to be recharging well. Midway through the week I received a text from Liz, my sister.

As a consequence of the brutal rainfall that has fallen on the south west in the Exeter area, it appeared that my house had not escaped and was flooded. At this point you need mates and a sister like mine to help out. Liz is a gem as I have mentioned on previous blogs (everyone should have a Liz!). She is forensic in just about everything she does and leaves no stone unturned. Once I had telephoned my insurers to grant her effective power of attorney with the claim, she has done a superb job coordinating what has been going on for my benefit. I should also like to thank both John for his advice and Quent particularly, who literally dropped everything to visit and prepare a claim report on the same day. You cannot buy these kind of mates; I'm very lucky, I have three who would go the extra mile without thought or complaint. To say I am grateful would be an understatement. So while the claim is being collated and the damage assessed, I have decided to stay here for another week; this will ensure that I am readily contactable, since on the road its not always easy to find an internet cafe; this will also allow me to get the 4th jab in as well. It had been my intention to spend 2 weeks in Ha Long Bay but this situation will now reverse that, although I will still visit Ha Long Bay it will only be for a day or two; besides which, the weather is better here. Must admit I didn't take much persuading.

So it has been an eventful few days; not quite what I had envisaged; but have set myself the 9th to set off when hopefully everything will have been resolved satisfactorally.

Saigon 8,742 kilometres

The ferry departed Phnom Penh at 8am, some 20 backpackers and I headed south for a 4 hour trip down the Mekong to Chau Doc in Vietnam. The journey itself was fairly uneventful, the banks of this mighty river giving way to small waterside communities and agriculture. Occasional larger water craft would pass, ploughing their way towards Phnom Penh. Three quarters of the journey completed, we pulled into a muddy river bank, climbed some steps at the top of which was a building that turned out to be the Cambodian checkpoint. The passport handed in, stamped, then back on the boat and off downstream to the Vietnamese border where a similar pattern was repeated. Thats the first river border crossing I have encountered, and it was very easy.

Chau Doc is one of several large towns and communities located within the Mekong Delta. As a town, it doesn't have a great deal to offer, but it is one of the busiest, especially with tourists, as its the link to Cambodia and a coach service also runs directly to Saigon. The following morning Cynthia and I set off to cycle through the Delta region. Humidity here is higher than I have experienced so far; to the extent that I became a dripping wreck within a few minutes. As the day progressed, every part of your anatomy sticks to other bits with the result that the constant sweat, friction and movement causes quite painful and uncomfortably raw tackle; thank goodness for showers and vaseline!!!!! For those of you who like route details, having left Chau Doc, the first port of call was Sa Dec and then Tan An before finally arriving in Saigon. The Delta region is characterised by an almost continuous number of villages and small towns; many of these communities set in small inlets surrounded by mangroves; the route also takes you over numerous large bridges beneath which are the tributaries of the Mekong. The scale of the delta region is quite something.

I have heard that people have deliberately avoided Vietnam because of a certain reputation it is supposed to have. Having been in this country for only 5 days (not long I grant you to form a conclusive opinion) from my experience so far, I would like to dispel all the negatives about this place. The people are equally as friendly as any I have met in South East Asia; maybe not as vociferous as their Cambodian neighbours (but then no one would be on that scale). I still get all the smiles, acknowledgements, the mick taken out of me and scooters coming alongside chatting and patting me on the back. Without question, the key is the way I am travelling. I'm not criticising backpackers, only a handful of years ago I backpacked through Australia, New Zealand and South America for the best part of a year and loved the experience. To some extent though, when you are reliant upon buses, trains etc to get you from place A to place B, you do isolate yourself from much of what is going on around you. That's not to say that when you arrive that you don't make the effort to integrate with the locals, which of course a lot of backpackers do. The difference is that on a bike, you integrate every minute of your whole journey and for me this is the most enjoyable part of the journey. I have no desire to see any more markets or religious icons, but to experience the day to day life of the people with whom you are sharing this brief experience is to my mind the most valuable and satisfying. There is a huge curiosity factor when I pull in to a street cafe for a drink; it is quite normal to sit with them at their request and chat, usually in sign language. Cynthia is a major curiosity in her own right (so rightly named if you know my ex-mother in law!), she attracts a group wherever she is parked up. When in Dubai I purchased a klaxon and I always know when I go in a shop or somewhere for advice, that someone will squeeze the klaxon; they love it. I always hear it everytime and when I come out I am met with wide grins. I can give you two instances so far where the locals have gone beyond the call of duty to help this idiot Englishman. On one occasion, a young girl who I had asked directions, got on her scooter and rode to where I needed to turn off (probably darn glad to get shot of me!). The second time was in Sa Dec, where I had just arrived and asked a feller and his son about accommodation for the night. No worries, they got on their scooter and again rode in front taking me to a superb hotel where the staff where unbelievably kind.

So what of Vietnam? Well one of the advantages of cycling is that you get a flavour of the people, the place and the driving conditions. The first two I have covered in the above paragraph, now to the real fun part. As you will observe from an atlas, Vietnam is thin and linear in shape; its not that big an area, but large enough to accommodate 90 million people. Given the topography, including the mountain region further north, then there is only so much room for these people to live and consequently, they congregate along the roads and water courses. Vietnam has a population that is some 6 times the size of Cambodia, so cycling through the Delta, pretty well every village or town is linked to the next to form a continuous urban scape along every road. The villages are bustling, always something going on and its clear that Vietnam is a wealthier country than Cambodia; there are a lot of building and construction projects in progress, notably bridges. Now to the traffic. Commensurate with the size of population their are millions of scooters, simply an unbelievable number. Having cycled for a few days I am now fully seized with traffic methodology. For a start, its absolutely fine to proceed against the traffic flow, and at all times, traffic entering the road from the left do so without sight or forthought, they just do it. In order to develop a successful technique, the key word is 'weaving'. Never stop whether you are on a bike, scooter or vehicle or a pedestrian; keep going in a deliberate manner and all traffic will weave in and out of you. The first couple of times, it is quite nerve wracking, but you get used to it. Another rule of the road is that it is quite ok to go round a roundabout the wrong way. This is great since your survival rate increases by missing out junctions to get to the one you want. The noise is deafening, everyone, but everyone seems to have the horn on non stop. I have to say though that the locals clearly recognising a foreigner when they see one, very often 'shelter' you by letting you come alongside and protecting you; they also are very respectful, well most are, so once you know whats likely to happen, its not too bad. Cycling into Saigon was not as bad as London, Istanbul or even Bangkok.

I shall be in Saigon for a couple of days only; its expensive and a typical big city. Big it is, having a population of 8 million; that's about the size of Bangkok. You are advised to stay in Districts 1,3 and 5 which is the modern downtown core, with all the fancy hotels and highrise offices. Its worth being here to see the traffic, strangely there are no tuk tuks here. From here its a cycle ride along Highway 1 to Da Nang and north. Highway 1 is a poorly maintained road, barely the equivalent of an average A road in England, more like a B road in many places. Have found a diner style restaurant just around the corner from where I am staying which is great to bulk up. For the last few days I have been living on street food which in some cases doesn't hang around too long in the digestive tract! Not sure when the next blog will be, probably Ha Long Bay. Cheers for now, time for a little exploring.