Friday 30 November 2012

A juddering halt in Paradise!

From Saigon to Hanoi the route is entirely Highway 1 and extends for between 1,800 - 1,900 kilometers depending on which road sign you select; it's still a long way. Cycling out of Saigon was very straightforward, in fact it could not have been easier. Far simpler than Bangkok or Istanbul. As always the locals ride by on scooters and look with mild astonishment or, as is more usual make some crack or gesture and say hello. So no surprise when a scooter pulls up alongside and the feller starts a conversation in English. He insisted on buying me a pepsi and during this interlude he tells me his name is Parat; he is 82 and looks 60 and used to work for an American Company as an interpreter. He took me to meet his family; we had iced coffee and then a quick trip through his village before saying goodbye as we rejoined Highway 1. As I have often  mentioned before, these people are very friendly and want to converse with visitors.

It took 2 days to reach Pham Thiet, a very attractive small city. I found a decent place to stay for the night before venturing out for something to eat. Parat had told me to visit Mui Ne which is a resort beach about 20 kilometers from Phan Thiet. The following morning, following a quick visit to the hospital, I followed the signs for Mui Ne. Having crested a hill, I freewheeled down and in front was an expanse of ocean: the South China Sea (Pacific). I immediately parked Cynth against a coconut tree facing the ocean and slapped the saddle in delight. I felt a wave of elation, which just took over. I suppose its the realisation that I had cycled from the Atlantic to the Pacific. When I started this journey, I didn't dare look as far as Vietnam; it seemed an endless destination, but here I was watching the surf crash onto the golden sand. It didn't take much for me to hit the surf and go for a swim. The water was like a hot bath and I just felt so good. It was one of those moments that would have been great to share with someone, I felt a real sense of achievement and just let the waves wash over me. There are loads of resorts and hotels extending along the bay; this is a quality resort location certainly international standard. The beach is sandy and just about everyone is kite surfing. It looks sensational; far more fun than wind surfing. I am staying at the Green Coconut Resort, not expensive and have a bamboo chalet with veranda and ocean view. Palm trees everywhere; swimming pool, restaurant, bar and private beach. Believe me its paradise; the weather is perfect, mid 80's with a warm easterly wind, no humidity. Definately worth a google! I was speaking to an Aussie guy who owns one of the kite schools and he told me that this place was gradually getting recognised and that tourism was improving but that there was definate mileage in tapping the European market. Currently the majority of tourists are Russian! Now these guys rarely speak to you; some do of course. The French then form the second largest tourist community, and like the Russians, they prefer to keep there own council. So if you are anything other than Russian or French (who don't seem to speak to each other either) then you hope to bump into Brits or Aussies if you want a few laughs. And thankfully, there are a few of them around.

I had been struggling somewhat with energy levels since arriving in Vietnam, much of which I put down to the humidity. Arriving in Mui Ne I was literally running on empty; had nothing left in the tank at all and felt exhausted. A mate of mine suggested I had travel fatigue, well whatever, and despite a couple days rest in Saigon, I decided I needed at least a week beach bumming. My enforced stay was also influenced by the fact that on my way to get some dinner in Phan Thiet, I was bitten by a dog. This necessitated the visit to the aforementioned hospital, and despite my rabies booster, the delightful Dr was very keen to fill me full of needles. So I have a course of 5 injections; 3 of which I could get while in Mui Ne and the other two on the way north. For my second jab, I was invited into the surgery; along the wall were nine chairs occupied by Vietnamese women and children; I started chatting to them and it was great, a ready audience to see the needle go in. Fortunately, she stuck it in my arm not my backside. Well the combination of surf, sun and cold beer seems to be working and the batteries seem to be recharging well. Midway through the week I received a text from Liz, my sister.

As a consequence of the brutal rainfall that has fallen on the south west in the Exeter area, it appeared that my house had not escaped and was flooded. At this point you need mates and a sister like mine to help out. Liz is a gem as I have mentioned on previous blogs (everyone should have a Liz!). She is forensic in just about everything she does and leaves no stone unturned. Once I had telephoned my insurers to grant her effective power of attorney with the claim, she has done a superb job coordinating what has been going on for my benefit. I should also like to thank both John for his advice and Quent particularly, who literally dropped everything to visit and prepare a claim report on the same day. You cannot buy these kind of mates; I'm very lucky, I have three who would go the extra mile without thought or complaint. To say I am grateful would be an understatement. So while the claim is being collated and the damage assessed, I have decided to stay here for another week; this will ensure that I am readily contactable, since on the road its not always easy to find an internet cafe; this will also allow me to get the 4th jab in as well. It had been my intention to spend 2 weeks in Ha Long Bay but this situation will now reverse that, although I will still visit Ha Long Bay it will only be for a day or two; besides which, the weather is better here. Must admit I didn't take much persuading.

So it has been an eventful few days; not quite what I had envisaged; but have set myself the 9th to set off when hopefully everything will have been resolved satisfactorally.


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