Still here in Tbilisi and will remain so for another couple of weeks. Met up with Steve, my old boss from Kazakhstan who is over here to spread his empire and open another office under the Veritas Brown/Cushman & Wakefield banner. I am going to assist though in what capacity I'm not sure; hence the reason for the extended stay. Meanwhile I am making the most of the late summer weather and have explored pretty much most locations, certainly in the central area. I am staying in a hostel just off Rustaveli Avenue; a mainly tree lined avenue which forms the main road through the city centre. The architecture along this avenue is generally striking, very attractive and European in feel and design. There is a lot of building activity taking place in and around the city. This appears to be on the back of considerable international 'investment' in recent years, mainly from Washington. Georgia really does appear to be open for business; no visas are required for many nationalities and apparently, it is the third easiest place in the world to start a business (behind New Zealand and A.N. Other) which is surprising given that it is ex Soviet Union where paper and stamps are needed in volumes and continue to be so in the Stans. There are a lot of Americans here, although the bulk of the tourists comprise Israelis and Polish.
The city offers the usual high street brands familiar in the UK including Next, Mothercare and Bata. For anyone visiting Tbilisi I have found the best patisserie/coffee shop and bookstore. Located on Rustaveli Avenue (well set back) beneath the Canadian Consulate (God's Country so it must be good!) stands Prospero's which also features an attractive outdoor courtyard. This is my morning pilgrimage and it's great. It's also a good meeting place and I have enjoyed several conversations with Americans over a French Press coffee. One in particular with a young lady called Camilla, a recently qualified Architect from DC who was so typically enthusiastic as most Americans are; a real delight. As I was taken for a German in Turkey, here I am taken for an American by the locals.
My time here has not simply been spent increasing my caffeine intake. I have been researching which route I should take next, definitely a process of elimination. Geographically I have hit something of an impass since I am unable to proceed through Iran. A great shame this, not simply because of the convenience and directness of route, but because I have heard nothing but positive and glowing tributes as to how beautiful the country is and how friendly and welcoming the people are. I have met several Iranians since arriving in Tbilisi, one couple are staying at my hostel, and they are charming, ready to extend a cordial invitation to stay with them if I ever got the chance to enter the country. The other factor apart from geography is cost. I'm afraid I don't have the luxury of too much time or bottomless pockets so this becomes a consideration.
I have looked into heading through the Stans, cycling up to Almaty, then flying to Delhi since by the time I hit Almaty, I think the winter would have kicked in, making crossing the Himalayas unlikely. The cost to get into Azerbaijan is $174, where I have to be to collect the various Stans visas. I estimate the cost on top of this (and it is certainly possible to get these visas) would be in excess of $500. Then an air flight on top plus living expenses etc. The other practical problem is that most likely I would only get a 5 day visa for Turkmenistan. It would be necessary for me to cycle across a desert of 476kms in that time to the Uzbek border and I'm not overly confident that these geriatric legs could do the job. It may sound that I am putting obstacles in the way, and I know it can be done as many others have done it. So my conclusion is that on leaving Tbilisi, I shall fly to Dubai and stay for a week, hopefully obtain my Indian visa and then fly on to Delhi. From Delhi I start pedaling hard and plan to cycle to Kolcutta along the north route into the tea plantation areas, plus of course visiting places like Varanasi. From there its into SE Asia proper where I will be able to gauge at first hand how best to access these countries; it appears that Bangkok will be the principal hub to collect a number of visas, but non should be difficult to obtain. Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam and China are all on the list.I then have a choice when I get to the South China Sea as to whether I keep turning left and heading north through China to South Korea and Japan, or take a right and drop into Australia but that decision is for later.So that is the game plan in outline, so by doing what I am doing to get to India, I am in effect only missing out on Iran and Pakistan (a big chunk I know).
So Dubai here we come!
Friday, 7 September 2012
Saturday, 1 September 2012
A rainy night in Georgia!
Well thats the title of the song, different Georgia but the sentiments hold true. Wow, does it know how to rain here as well.
Its been about a week since leaving Trabzon and arriving here in Tbilisi. What two contrasting Countries which you notice almost immediately on crossing the border at Sarpi. Having become used to the semi arid conditions in Turkey and the cycling along dual carriageway' literally within 20kms the scenery becomes verdent green with species very familiar including ferns, lilac and avenues of Horse Chestnut which are now turning to their autumn plumage. Although the main road, it is single carriageway and the vegetation enroaches to roadside making you feel far more part of the landscape than the former dual carriageway. It is around 20 kms to the main border city of Batumi which lies on the coast and which is undergoing development although retains much of its former character of markets and street traders along pot holed roads. Inevitably these areas appear chaotic with taxis and mini buses fighting for space and passengers, the whole scene being further complicated by the traders themselves pushing carts of various size and description carrying an array of produce. Batumi has a familiar border town feel and you sense the proliferation of hotels lends more to visitors from over the border enjoying the delights of female Russian ladies of the night.
As opposed to Turkey where locals were very forthcoming in their salutations as I passed, in Georgia they are much more reserved and tend to watch you as you go by. The horns still sound but I quickly realised that the majority were either wanting me out of the way or in respect of vehicles ahead of them whom they wish to pass. In view of this rebalance and other factors, unless it is blatently obvious that a passing vehicle is 'making contact', I dont acknowledge any sound as I did in Turkey. Now a word about roads and driving. Well actually I could write a thesis on this and perhaps it deserves one. The driving here is unbelieveably bad, this is accentuated by the single carriageway that extends to some 15km west of Gori or 90kms from Tbilisi (from there it becomes dual carriageway with a decent shoulder to cycle along). The Turkish know how to build good roads, well I think so, here there is virtually no shoulder to ride on, if your lucky you get about a foot and all the while you are negotiating pot holes and tarmac ridges which can throw you all over the place. As for the driving, one thing I noted is how few women drive. That having been said the only rule of the road is that there are no rules! The drivers have I gear (very fast) and one aim and that is to get in front of the vehicle ahead whatever the cost. They have no brakes and drive right up to the vehicle in front announcing their presence with a horn. This is magnified both ways since it is not uncommon for 3 vehicles alongside each other coming towards me and two or three in line coming up behind me and who gives way is like a game of chicken. Must be a macho thing, I dont know but it does keep a cyclist on his or her toes thats for sure. This is further compounded by cows and pigs that freely graze along the roadside and will often wander across as they feel. You would think this would cause carnage but it doesn't' the only road casualties are dogs' a lot of them littered on the road and roadsideFrom my perspective and the way we drive it would take some time to adjust to the Georgian school of motoring but I guess they know how the others will react so it must work. But believe me they have no regard whatsoever for cyclists, they chop you up, cut across you, stop right in front of you as if you wern't there. The strange thing is that when you arrive at the dual carriageway, there is space and the horns stop and the driving seems much more controlled.
Departing Batumi I headed up the coast towards Poti. It was almost, but not quite like riding in England and unlike Turkey, the villages fronted right onto the road, the melon vendors gradually changed to pottery vendors. Poti itself is nothing to write home about, a spawling old style city again with the focus on the market street scene. I had ridden into the City and was struck by my 3rd puncture in almost as many days. 'Cynth', I said, 'this cannot go on'. Two fellers came over and since it was clear what was needed, they insisted on taking me to the bike shop. This was great since we had to wander through dirt streets either side of which were crowded tin, stone and concrete shops selling all sorts with displays on the road itself. Just about every square inch was used. Hens clucking and pigs squealing added to the contained mayhem as it was early morning and the women were out looking for the best produce on offer. I purchased a new tyre, not a top quality one by any means and I suppose I should have put that on the front and the good one on the back, but as I intend to put the wider tyres on either in Tbilisi or Baku I hoped that it would last the few hundred kilometers until then.
My route followed the main road, the only road from Poti to Tbilisi and passed through Kutaisi, a large city that has undergone a modern resurgence. It has a MacDonalds, not that that proves anything but at that particular time it was manna from heaven. Just as I arrived for breakfast, having spent the previous night in something resembling a shack (but it was quaint in its homespun way, the dry rot and damp adding to experience!), the heavens opened, and boy did they. A belter of a storm which continued unabated all day. The streets quickly flooded big time and i'll bet many ladies regretted putting on their dresses that day as the cars drove by them completely showering them head to foot! I was therefore in a bit of a dilemma; should I stay and stuff myself on chocolate shakes and coffee or go for it. I went for it and cycled the distance I needed to get to Zestaponi. It was unfortunate that I was told there was a hotel further in Kharaguili some 25kms distant. Well, there wasn't! The town stopped and turned into a dirt track and the police politely advised me to go back from whence I had arrived. So I did. I should learn that very few people know much about whats around outside a radius of 5 miles! With a better day following I made Gori. This was the mountain section, and starting my assent up to 1,400m encouraging Cynthia to get her finger out and push easy a van pulled up. I was offered a lift into the next town of Khashuri some 20 kms ahead. I took up the kind offer reckoning that I was owed a few kms from the previous day and also to gain a drivers perspective, well what perspective I could see looking through the very cracked windscreen! Well it was as I expected, drive as fast as you can, overtake on a sharp bend since nothing will be coming the other way, going down a 1:7 no dont brake, accelerate, but we got there fine and that drive saved me a day cycling so I was very grateful.
Gori is arguably the second city, its not bad either, much of the build is post world war two since the city had a tough time at that point. Gori is characterised by wide streets with some attractive architecture although inevitably during my sojourn across Georgia, it is clear that my favourite Russian architect has been unleashed in designing some really ugly industrial plants and high rise tenements clad in concrete and tin! How the Soviets put sputnicks up i'll never know!
The ride into Tbilisi was great, decent roads, ideal weather and we knocked off the 75kms in under 3 and a half hours averaging around 23 kms per hour, pretty good going. Into Tbilisi itself thr road was good and easy to find the centre, although the centre is effectively divided by the river. Some of the architecture is beautiful, especially the Government and Public Buildings and there is a good feel to the city. As you would expect all the major players are there including the big hotel chains, getting across the arterial roads is difficult, well crossing small roads is difficult as cars will not stop for you. I'm staying here for a while, this in part is enforced by my need to obtain an Azerbaijan Visa and also to meet my ex-boss Steve from Kazakhstan next thursday who is flying in as he is opening a new office. It will be great to catch up with him again. I have been advised that visas for Azerbaijan have been difficult to get for some reason. Sure it wont be a problem, hopefully not. My back up would be to bus it to Yereven, Armenia and pick up an Indian Visa, although if I have an Armenian stamp the Azerbaijanies wont let me in. Ahh the wonders of politics! Very confident it wll be ok though.
Found a hostel since prices here are very much more expensive than Turkey. The woman at the hostel (Waltzing Matilda) was as rude as you could possibly get, completey off hand and couldn't have cared less, refusing to let me bring Cynth into the building. Since it was late I decided to stay the night but having chucked my stuff in the room, went out to look for alternative accommodation. Found some nearby, and have a 4 bed dorm to myself, oh with balcony. Will do me fine. I will post the name of this place when I remember; but for those visiting Tbilis also look out for the Liberty Hostel; web page www.liberty-hostel.com . This is a clean and well priced place to stay if you are backpacking this way. That evening Greg, a Georgian lad who could speak perfect english was very apologetic and said I could immediately bring Cynthia from the deluge that was taking place out side. This morning I spoke with the owner, Tatiana who was also delightful and explained why I was leaving. Hopefully they can resolve the problem with this member of staff who clearly has issues and needs a thorough lesson in human relations. In my place at the moment is an Aussie called Justin, top bloke who only arrived last night. he has been travelling for 14 months and has some great experiences and a lot of information helpful to my progress. We went out today for something to eat and a few beers; well it was raining!! So coming up a bit of sightseeing, shopping, overhaul Cynth and sort out the visas, plenty on the go.
Oh as a final addition, I passed the 6,000 km mark, and have now cycled 6,087kms as I type. Will post as to progress on visas in due course. Cheers.
Its been about a week since leaving Trabzon and arriving here in Tbilisi. What two contrasting Countries which you notice almost immediately on crossing the border at Sarpi. Having become used to the semi arid conditions in Turkey and the cycling along dual carriageway' literally within 20kms the scenery becomes verdent green with species very familiar including ferns, lilac and avenues of Horse Chestnut which are now turning to their autumn plumage. Although the main road, it is single carriageway and the vegetation enroaches to roadside making you feel far more part of the landscape than the former dual carriageway. It is around 20 kms to the main border city of Batumi which lies on the coast and which is undergoing development although retains much of its former character of markets and street traders along pot holed roads. Inevitably these areas appear chaotic with taxis and mini buses fighting for space and passengers, the whole scene being further complicated by the traders themselves pushing carts of various size and description carrying an array of produce. Batumi has a familiar border town feel and you sense the proliferation of hotels lends more to visitors from over the border enjoying the delights of female Russian ladies of the night.
As opposed to Turkey where locals were very forthcoming in their salutations as I passed, in Georgia they are much more reserved and tend to watch you as you go by. The horns still sound but I quickly realised that the majority were either wanting me out of the way or in respect of vehicles ahead of them whom they wish to pass. In view of this rebalance and other factors, unless it is blatently obvious that a passing vehicle is 'making contact', I dont acknowledge any sound as I did in Turkey. Now a word about roads and driving. Well actually I could write a thesis on this and perhaps it deserves one. The driving here is unbelieveably bad, this is accentuated by the single carriageway that extends to some 15km west of Gori or 90kms from Tbilisi (from there it becomes dual carriageway with a decent shoulder to cycle along). The Turkish know how to build good roads, well I think so, here there is virtually no shoulder to ride on, if your lucky you get about a foot and all the while you are negotiating pot holes and tarmac ridges which can throw you all over the place. As for the driving, one thing I noted is how few women drive. That having been said the only rule of the road is that there are no rules! The drivers have I gear (very fast) and one aim and that is to get in front of the vehicle ahead whatever the cost. They have no brakes and drive right up to the vehicle in front announcing their presence with a horn. This is magnified both ways since it is not uncommon for 3 vehicles alongside each other coming towards me and two or three in line coming up behind me and who gives way is like a game of chicken. Must be a macho thing, I dont know but it does keep a cyclist on his or her toes thats for sure. This is further compounded by cows and pigs that freely graze along the roadside and will often wander across as they feel. You would think this would cause carnage but it doesn't' the only road casualties are dogs' a lot of them littered on the road and roadsideFrom my perspective and the way we drive it would take some time to adjust to the Georgian school of motoring but I guess they know how the others will react so it must work. But believe me they have no regard whatsoever for cyclists, they chop you up, cut across you, stop right in front of you as if you wern't there. The strange thing is that when you arrive at the dual carriageway, there is space and the horns stop and the driving seems much more controlled.
Departing Batumi I headed up the coast towards Poti. It was almost, but not quite like riding in England and unlike Turkey, the villages fronted right onto the road, the melon vendors gradually changed to pottery vendors. Poti itself is nothing to write home about, a spawling old style city again with the focus on the market street scene. I had ridden into the City and was struck by my 3rd puncture in almost as many days. 'Cynth', I said, 'this cannot go on'. Two fellers came over and since it was clear what was needed, they insisted on taking me to the bike shop. This was great since we had to wander through dirt streets either side of which were crowded tin, stone and concrete shops selling all sorts with displays on the road itself. Just about every square inch was used. Hens clucking and pigs squealing added to the contained mayhem as it was early morning and the women were out looking for the best produce on offer. I purchased a new tyre, not a top quality one by any means and I suppose I should have put that on the front and the good one on the back, but as I intend to put the wider tyres on either in Tbilisi or Baku I hoped that it would last the few hundred kilometers until then.
My route followed the main road, the only road from Poti to Tbilisi and passed through Kutaisi, a large city that has undergone a modern resurgence. It has a MacDonalds, not that that proves anything but at that particular time it was manna from heaven. Just as I arrived for breakfast, having spent the previous night in something resembling a shack (but it was quaint in its homespun way, the dry rot and damp adding to experience!), the heavens opened, and boy did they. A belter of a storm which continued unabated all day. The streets quickly flooded big time and i'll bet many ladies regretted putting on their dresses that day as the cars drove by them completely showering them head to foot! I was therefore in a bit of a dilemma; should I stay and stuff myself on chocolate shakes and coffee or go for it. I went for it and cycled the distance I needed to get to Zestaponi. It was unfortunate that I was told there was a hotel further in Kharaguili some 25kms distant. Well, there wasn't! The town stopped and turned into a dirt track and the police politely advised me to go back from whence I had arrived. So I did. I should learn that very few people know much about whats around outside a radius of 5 miles! With a better day following I made Gori. This was the mountain section, and starting my assent up to 1,400m encouraging Cynthia to get her finger out and push easy a van pulled up. I was offered a lift into the next town of Khashuri some 20 kms ahead. I took up the kind offer reckoning that I was owed a few kms from the previous day and also to gain a drivers perspective, well what perspective I could see looking through the very cracked windscreen! Well it was as I expected, drive as fast as you can, overtake on a sharp bend since nothing will be coming the other way, going down a 1:7 no dont brake, accelerate, but we got there fine and that drive saved me a day cycling so I was very grateful.
Gori is arguably the second city, its not bad either, much of the build is post world war two since the city had a tough time at that point. Gori is characterised by wide streets with some attractive architecture although inevitably during my sojourn across Georgia, it is clear that my favourite Russian architect has been unleashed in designing some really ugly industrial plants and high rise tenements clad in concrete and tin! How the Soviets put sputnicks up i'll never know!
The ride into Tbilisi was great, decent roads, ideal weather and we knocked off the 75kms in under 3 and a half hours averaging around 23 kms per hour, pretty good going. Into Tbilisi itself thr road was good and easy to find the centre, although the centre is effectively divided by the river. Some of the architecture is beautiful, especially the Government and Public Buildings and there is a good feel to the city. As you would expect all the major players are there including the big hotel chains, getting across the arterial roads is difficult, well crossing small roads is difficult as cars will not stop for you. I'm staying here for a while, this in part is enforced by my need to obtain an Azerbaijan Visa and also to meet my ex-boss Steve from Kazakhstan next thursday who is flying in as he is opening a new office. It will be great to catch up with him again. I have been advised that visas for Azerbaijan have been difficult to get for some reason. Sure it wont be a problem, hopefully not. My back up would be to bus it to Yereven, Armenia and pick up an Indian Visa, although if I have an Armenian stamp the Azerbaijanies wont let me in. Ahh the wonders of politics! Very confident it wll be ok though.
Found a hostel since prices here are very much more expensive than Turkey. The woman at the hostel (Waltzing Matilda) was as rude as you could possibly get, completey off hand and couldn't have cared less, refusing to let me bring Cynth into the building. Since it was late I decided to stay the night but having chucked my stuff in the room, went out to look for alternative accommodation. Found some nearby, and have a 4 bed dorm to myself, oh with balcony. Will do me fine. I will post the name of this place when I remember; but for those visiting Tbilis also look out for the Liberty Hostel; web page www.liberty-hostel.com . This is a clean and well priced place to stay if you are backpacking this way. That evening Greg, a Georgian lad who could speak perfect english was very apologetic and said I could immediately bring Cynthia from the deluge that was taking place out side. This morning I spoke with the owner, Tatiana who was also delightful and explained why I was leaving. Hopefully they can resolve the problem with this member of staff who clearly has issues and needs a thorough lesson in human relations. In my place at the moment is an Aussie called Justin, top bloke who only arrived last night. he has been travelling for 14 months and has some great experiences and a lot of information helpful to my progress. We went out today for something to eat and a few beers; well it was raining!! So coming up a bit of sightseeing, shopping, overhaul Cynth and sort out the visas, plenty on the go.
Oh as a final addition, I passed the 6,000 km mark, and have now cycled 6,087kms as I type. Will post as to progress on visas in due course. Cheers.
Wednesday, 22 August 2012
Onto Trabzon
Spent a very enjoyable rest day ın Samsun, a bustlıng commercıal cıty and port havıng a populatıon of around 600,000. Walked along the seafront and explored the central cıty area. Hıstorıcally Samsun was ın an area frequented by the Hıttıtes and accordıng to those far more ın the know than İ, there are sıgnıfıcant archaeologıcal ruıns yet to be uncovered from thıs area. Samsun ıs also known as the home of the Amazons (not the opposıte of Arthur Ransomes Swallows) but the female warrıors who fought on horseback wıth arrows. It ıs saıd that thıs fearsome ladıes cut off a breast so that theır aım would be true. Drastıc ın anyones book I would say.
Cynthıa and I left Samsun after breakfast around 8.30am and havıng negotıated the usual cıty traffıc found ourselves cruısıng on a decent shoulder lane on a dual carrıageway; the D010. Sometımes the elements conspıre to gıve you every break possıble and that day was one of those. Warm sun wıth frequent cloud cover, a taıl wınd and a level road. The Black Sea was never far from my left vısıon. I looked at my on-board computer (sounds a bıt grand but ısnt) and I was cruısıng wıth ease at around 30 km per hour. Now thıs ıs the way I lıke to cycle. Never takıng the elements or topography for granted, I made sure I covered a good few kılometers before takıng a break. I neednt have worrıed, nothıng changed durıng the day. I past through many small coastal towns, whıle ın Samsun I got chattıng to the owner of a mını market who was an ex-seafarer maınly based ın the Aegean and around Izmır. He told me that the Black Sea was very polluted and really not ıdeal to swım ın. Thıs would account for the lack of people ın the sea as I noted passıng these locatıons. Towards the end of the day just before Ordu I had a choıce to make, eıther go through the new tunnel whıch ıs over 4kms long or take the old road around the coast and hınterland whıch was some 20kms longer. Im not a fan of tunnels, however, Toby and Claudıa had come through thıs way and saıd ıt was fıne, but they had reflectıve jackets. Apparently, the sensors pıck up cyclısts and swıtch on more lıghts at each sectıon (could only be German desıgn) so Toby and Claudıa felt fıne about the experıence. Well, the weather was so good and there looked to be a lot of coastal vıllages so I went wıth the coast route. In one way I am glad I dıd, ıt was a very attractıve route however as wıth all routes that have been bypassed, the mıcro economy of these vıllages have really suffered. Most people were gatherıng and sortıng hazelnuts, a key crop ın thıs area brought to my attentıon by my sıster who knows thıs stuff.The consequence of takıng thıs route almost certaınly deprıved me of attaınıng 200kms for the days rıde. I cycled ınto Ordu havıng done 180kms whıch wasnt bad ın any case. The road cuts through Ordu whıch ıs a very attractıve cıty about 150,000. As I pulled up to the lıghts ın the centre dusk was formıng and as always the volume of chaıkıng was non stop, I saw the tourıst ınformatıon offıce rıght alongsıde. I hauled Cynth up onto the pavement and parked her up. Managed to fıx up accommodatıon very reasonably, got a sea vıew room, en suıte for 12 pounds, perfıck!
Have to say the one thıng that decıded me to quıt at that poınt was the drıvıng. I have found ın my experıence ın muslım countrıes that the longer Ramadan progresses the worst the drıvıng becomes. It was the same ın the UAE and most certaınly was the case here. Saturday, the day ın questıon was the fınal day of Ramadam. I wıtnessed 3 accıdents that day, I actually saw a Mondeo veer off to the rıght ın a town centre and straıght ınto a dıtch. Loads of people around, fortunately no one was ınjured. Also fortunate was the locatıon of a traffıc polıce poınt lıterally 30 yards beyond the ıncıdent. The two other accıdents were shunts ınvolvıng several cars at lıghts. The Turkısh drıvers have thıs thıng that they must be ahead, not quıte as bad as the Italıans, but then the Italıans are better drıvers. When a rıght hand junctıon approaches, normally ın the UK we pull up behınd whatever ıs ın front and turn off. Not here, they career past you then cut rıght across ın front of you. I am now famılıar wıth thıs tactıc so keep my eyes on the mırror at all tımes. Another thıng they do ıs open the car door wıthout checkıng the mırrors. They always do that, and one very nearly sıdeswıped me as I passed. I turned and he was very apologetıc , so I contınued on wıth a wave.
As good as the day was cyclıng ınto Ordu, ıt was as bad the followıng day. By 10am the clouds had gathered wıth a vengence and not long after they deposıted quıte a bıt of ıt on me. It chucked ıt down all day and wıthout waterproofs I got soaked, mınd you wıth them ıt wouldnt have made much dıfference. It was very notıcable that thıs second part of the journey (about 180km to Trabzon) contrasted greatly wıth the fırst bıt ın relatıon to the coastal towns. Between Ordu and Trabzon the road effectıvely by passes these towns beıng separated by a barrıer, although there are access poınts off. The same scenarıo was apparent where wıthout exceptıon all these small towns were fallıng ınto varıous states of neglect and dısrepaır wıth no ıncentıve whatsoever to stop off and look around. Most had former open ground where all sorts of rubbısh was collectıng, buıldıngs ın poor or unfınıshed condıtıon etc. For the last 100 kms or so to Trabzon there are no hotels, all have now closed. Makıng my way through a serıes of 5 tunnels extendıng from 200m to 2.6kms ın length (I walked these) Cynth got a puncture back wheel agaın, great. On closer ınspectıon I noted two broken spokes as well. I walked a bıt untıl I saw a restaurant set back from the road. To the sıde of the restaurant was a part covered lean to store whıch afforded some shelter from the deluge that was takıng place. I started to strıp her down, not an ıdeal place or sıtuatıon to remove a ladıes coverıng but needs must and shes a rough old bırd! Fıxed the puncture ok, for the second tıme ıt was a stıp of wıre that had penetrated the tyre. I had purchased spokes from the bıke shop ın England. They were too long and were for the front tyre only. I suppose I should have checked before I left, anyhow nothıng I could do except waıt for Trabzon and rıde her gently untıl then. Whıle I was carryıng out the surgery the owners daughter came over. She was about 12 called Zaınab. Spoke great englısh and attended a school ın Istanbul. I hadnt notıced that whıle fıxıng the bıke I had cut my fınger. Zaınab dıd and headed back to her place to return wıth a wıpe and varıous plasters whıch she ınsısted on applyıng herself. I asked her what she wanted to do when she fınıshed school, she saıd be a Dr. I thınk she should be.
As I mentıoned, there are no hotels for the fınal 100kms or so ınto Trabzon. Thats fıne ıf you have that ınformatıon, of course I dıdnt. Mındful of the ımpendıng darkness that was begınnıng to fall I pulled off and cycled through two or three of these vıllages of course drawıng blanks. At one of them (forgıve me I have forgotton whıch one and I dont have my map wıth me. It begıns wıth an E) I stopped off and asked about a hotel. Ah yes, came the reply the teachıng house. Great I thought, I have stayed at these before and they are fıne. Sort of Unıversıty accommodatıon/hotels an odd combo I agree. I receıved dırectıons and started to make my way. I asked agaın a couple streets later and followed ınstructıons. Eventually I found the buıldıng and parked Cynthıa. As I dısmounted I was met by the two people I had asked dırectıons from plus at least three others. They all accompanıed me ınsıde where I met the Manager and asked ıf she had a bed for the nıght. No came the polıte rebuttle. No I repeated! No, ıts a student dorm so no outsıders. Ah, what are my optıons I asked. At thıs poınt everyone joıned ın thıs dıscussın ın Turkısh of course. My arrıval seemed to have caused a bıt of ınterest for some reason. Then fıve more people walked ın (thats 10 ın total) well one could speak fluent Englısh and hıs name was Yusef and he was accompanıed by members of hıs famıly who were delıghtful. He explaıned the posıtıon to me then saıd waıt. At thıs poınt I saıd that I dıdnt want to cause thıs lady any problem and that I saw a couple of tents on the beach, I could head over there. In unıson the reply was no no no, dangerous. Followıng some negotıatıon, the takıng of my passport detaıls and assurances from myself as to the reason why I was cyclıng (whıch they loved), the Manager let me have a whole 4 bed dorm to myself for 7 lıra (about 2 pounds). Yusef also ınsısted on gıvıng me hıs phone number sayıng any problems whıle ın Turkey to call hım and that ıf I returned to Istanbul I could stay at the famıly flat. He also came wıth me to the shops so that I wouldnt get rıpped off. How do you thank these people who are so kınd. They really put themselves out on a lımb for me and was I grateful.
The rıde the followıng mornıng ınto Trabzon was a breeze, weather cleared up, got my bearıngs found a bıllet. I am stayıng for 5 days, well a lıttle excessıve but you have to remember that the fırst two days were the resıdue of the publıc holıday after Ramadan so ıt meant I couldnt vısıt the Iran Consul untıl today (wednesday). Yesterday I bumped ınto two englısh speakıng Turkısh students who sorted out where a bıke repaır shop was and came along wıth me to fınd ıt . Agaın, the kındness ıs extraordınary. Now fıxed the bıke and gıven her an overhaul ın the maın square whıch aroused some ınterest from the locals wanderıng past. Trabzon ıtself ıs a bıg cıty of one and a half mıllıon. Its one of Turkeys major centres, a bıt lıke Newcastle or Manchester ıs ın the UK. So today I made my way to the Iran Consul buoyed wıth a lıttle more optımısm havıng spoken wıth Toby and Claudıa. I reckon the whole epısode took the best part of 47 seconds! Followıng the tradıtıonal good mornıng greetıngs, the offıcıal asked me where I was from? England, UK I replıed. No vısa he responded. Not UK or USA, so clearly Call me Dave and Barack wıll not be exchangıng new year greetıngs wıth Mr Dınnerjacket for a bıt! The representatıve who was perfectly polıte advısed me that even ıf I had got that letter of ıntroductıon that the grantıng of a vısa wouldnt happen.The three people fıllıng ın theır applıcatıons looked up and were clearly surprısed at the ımmedıate refusal. So there we have ıt, my path ıs set ıts Georgıa and Azerbaıjan for thıs young man. Meanwhıle I shall make the most of my last two days and contınue to consume huge quantıtıes of Mac Donalds chocolate mılkshakes whıch are awesome. Ive been dreamıng about these sınce Istanbul.Nıce to have beer back on the menu as well. And a poınt for Argyle not bad.
Cynthıa and I left Samsun after breakfast around 8.30am and havıng negotıated the usual cıty traffıc found ourselves cruısıng on a decent shoulder lane on a dual carrıageway; the D010. Sometımes the elements conspıre to gıve you every break possıble and that day was one of those. Warm sun wıth frequent cloud cover, a taıl wınd and a level road. The Black Sea was never far from my left vısıon. I looked at my on-board computer (sounds a bıt grand but ısnt) and I was cruısıng wıth ease at around 30 km per hour. Now thıs ıs the way I lıke to cycle. Never takıng the elements or topography for granted, I made sure I covered a good few kılometers before takıng a break. I neednt have worrıed, nothıng changed durıng the day. I past through many small coastal towns, whıle ın Samsun I got chattıng to the owner of a mını market who was an ex-seafarer maınly based ın the Aegean and around Izmır. He told me that the Black Sea was very polluted and really not ıdeal to swım ın. Thıs would account for the lack of people ın the sea as I noted passıng these locatıons. Towards the end of the day just before Ordu I had a choıce to make, eıther go through the new tunnel whıch ıs over 4kms long or take the old road around the coast and hınterland whıch was some 20kms longer. Im not a fan of tunnels, however, Toby and Claudıa had come through thıs way and saıd ıt was fıne, but they had reflectıve jackets. Apparently, the sensors pıck up cyclısts and swıtch on more lıghts at each sectıon (could only be German desıgn) so Toby and Claudıa felt fıne about the experıence. Well, the weather was so good and there looked to be a lot of coastal vıllages so I went wıth the coast route. In one way I am glad I dıd, ıt was a very attractıve route however as wıth all routes that have been bypassed, the mıcro economy of these vıllages have really suffered. Most people were gatherıng and sortıng hazelnuts, a key crop ın thıs area brought to my attentıon by my sıster who knows thıs stuff.The consequence of takıng thıs route almost certaınly deprıved me of attaınıng 200kms for the days rıde. I cycled ınto Ordu havıng done 180kms whıch wasnt bad ın any case. The road cuts through Ordu whıch ıs a very attractıve cıty about 150,000. As I pulled up to the lıghts ın the centre dusk was formıng and as always the volume of chaıkıng was non stop, I saw the tourıst ınformatıon offıce rıght alongsıde. I hauled Cynth up onto the pavement and parked her up. Managed to fıx up accommodatıon very reasonably, got a sea vıew room, en suıte for 12 pounds, perfıck!
Have to say the one thıng that decıded me to quıt at that poınt was the drıvıng. I have found ın my experıence ın muslım countrıes that the longer Ramadan progresses the worst the drıvıng becomes. It was the same ın the UAE and most certaınly was the case here. Saturday, the day ın questıon was the fınal day of Ramadam. I wıtnessed 3 accıdents that day, I actually saw a Mondeo veer off to the rıght ın a town centre and straıght ınto a dıtch. Loads of people around, fortunately no one was ınjured. Also fortunate was the locatıon of a traffıc polıce poınt lıterally 30 yards beyond the ıncıdent. The two other accıdents were shunts ınvolvıng several cars at lıghts. The Turkısh drıvers have thıs thıng that they must be ahead, not quıte as bad as the Italıans, but then the Italıans are better drıvers. When a rıght hand junctıon approaches, normally ın the UK we pull up behınd whatever ıs ın front and turn off. Not here, they career past you then cut rıght across ın front of you. I am now famılıar wıth thıs tactıc so keep my eyes on the mırror at all tımes. Another thıng they do ıs open the car door wıthout checkıng the mırrors. They always do that, and one very nearly sıdeswıped me as I passed. I turned and he was very apologetıc , so I contınued on wıth a wave.
As good as the day was cyclıng ınto Ordu, ıt was as bad the followıng day. By 10am the clouds had gathered wıth a vengence and not long after they deposıted quıte a bıt of ıt on me. It chucked ıt down all day and wıthout waterproofs I got soaked, mınd you wıth them ıt wouldnt have made much dıfference. It was very notıcable that thıs second part of the journey (about 180km to Trabzon) contrasted greatly wıth the fırst bıt ın relatıon to the coastal towns. Between Ordu and Trabzon the road effectıvely by passes these towns beıng separated by a barrıer, although there are access poınts off. The same scenarıo was apparent where wıthout exceptıon all these small towns were fallıng ınto varıous states of neglect and dısrepaır wıth no ıncentıve whatsoever to stop off and look around. Most had former open ground where all sorts of rubbısh was collectıng, buıldıngs ın poor or unfınıshed condıtıon etc. For the last 100 kms or so to Trabzon there are no hotels, all have now closed. Makıng my way through a serıes of 5 tunnels extendıng from 200m to 2.6kms ın length (I walked these) Cynth got a puncture back wheel agaın, great. On closer ınspectıon I noted two broken spokes as well. I walked a bıt untıl I saw a restaurant set back from the road. To the sıde of the restaurant was a part covered lean to store whıch afforded some shelter from the deluge that was takıng place. I started to strıp her down, not an ıdeal place or sıtuatıon to remove a ladıes coverıng but needs must and shes a rough old bırd! Fıxed the puncture ok, for the second tıme ıt was a stıp of wıre that had penetrated the tyre. I had purchased spokes from the bıke shop ın England. They were too long and were for the front tyre only. I suppose I should have checked before I left, anyhow nothıng I could do except waıt for Trabzon and rıde her gently untıl then. Whıle I was carryıng out the surgery the owners daughter came over. She was about 12 called Zaınab. Spoke great englısh and attended a school ın Istanbul. I hadnt notıced that whıle fıxıng the bıke I had cut my fınger. Zaınab dıd and headed back to her place to return wıth a wıpe and varıous plasters whıch she ınsısted on applyıng herself. I asked her what she wanted to do when she fınıshed school, she saıd be a Dr. I thınk she should be.
As I mentıoned, there are no hotels for the fınal 100kms or so ınto Trabzon. Thats fıne ıf you have that ınformatıon, of course I dıdnt. Mındful of the ımpendıng darkness that was begınnıng to fall I pulled off and cycled through two or three of these vıllages of course drawıng blanks. At one of them (forgıve me I have forgotton whıch one and I dont have my map wıth me. It begıns wıth an E) I stopped off and asked about a hotel. Ah yes, came the reply the teachıng house. Great I thought, I have stayed at these before and they are fıne. Sort of Unıversıty accommodatıon/hotels an odd combo I agree. I receıved dırectıons and started to make my way. I asked agaın a couple streets later and followed ınstructıons. Eventually I found the buıldıng and parked Cynthıa. As I dısmounted I was met by the two people I had asked dırectıons from plus at least three others. They all accompanıed me ınsıde where I met the Manager and asked ıf she had a bed for the nıght. No came the polıte rebuttle. No I repeated! No, ıts a student dorm so no outsıders. Ah, what are my optıons I asked. At thıs poınt everyone joıned ın thıs dıscussın ın Turkısh of course. My arrıval seemed to have caused a bıt of ınterest for some reason. Then fıve more people walked ın (thats 10 ın total) well one could speak fluent Englısh and hıs name was Yusef and he was accompanıed by members of hıs famıly who were delıghtful. He explaıned the posıtıon to me then saıd waıt. At thıs poınt I saıd that I dıdnt want to cause thıs lady any problem and that I saw a couple of tents on the beach, I could head over there. In unıson the reply was no no no, dangerous. Followıng some negotıatıon, the takıng of my passport detaıls and assurances from myself as to the reason why I was cyclıng (whıch they loved), the Manager let me have a whole 4 bed dorm to myself for 7 lıra (about 2 pounds). Yusef also ınsısted on gıvıng me hıs phone number sayıng any problems whıle ın Turkey to call hım and that ıf I returned to Istanbul I could stay at the famıly flat. He also came wıth me to the shops so that I wouldnt get rıpped off. How do you thank these people who are so kınd. They really put themselves out on a lımb for me and was I grateful.
The rıde the followıng mornıng ınto Trabzon was a breeze, weather cleared up, got my bearıngs found a bıllet. I am stayıng for 5 days, well a lıttle excessıve but you have to remember that the fırst two days were the resıdue of the publıc holıday after Ramadan so ıt meant I couldnt vısıt the Iran Consul untıl today (wednesday). Yesterday I bumped ınto two englısh speakıng Turkısh students who sorted out where a bıke repaır shop was and came along wıth me to fınd ıt . Agaın, the kındness ıs extraordınary. Now fıxed the bıke and gıven her an overhaul ın the maın square whıch aroused some ınterest from the locals wanderıng past. Trabzon ıtself ıs a bıg cıty of one and a half mıllıon. Its one of Turkeys major centres, a bıt lıke Newcastle or Manchester ıs ın the UK. So today I made my way to the Iran Consul buoyed wıth a lıttle more optımısm havıng spoken wıth Toby and Claudıa. I reckon the whole epısode took the best part of 47 seconds! Followıng the tradıtıonal good mornıng greetıngs, the offıcıal asked me where I was from? England, UK I replıed. No vısa he responded. Not UK or USA, so clearly Call me Dave and Barack wıll not be exchangıng new year greetıngs wıth Mr Dınnerjacket for a bıt! The representatıve who was perfectly polıte advısed me that even ıf I had got that letter of ıntroductıon that the grantıng of a vısa wouldnt happen.The three people fıllıng ın theır applıcatıons looked up and were clearly surprısed at the ımmedıate refusal. So there we have ıt, my path ıs set ıts Georgıa and Azerbaıjan for thıs young man. Meanwhıle I shall make the most of my last two days and contınue to consume huge quantıtıes of Mac Donalds chocolate mılkshakes whıch are awesome. Ive been dreamıng about these sınce Istanbul.Nıce to have beer back on the menu as well. And a poınt for Argyle not bad.
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