A rainy night in Georgia!

Well thats the title of the song, different Georgia but the sentiments hold true. Wow, does it know how to rain here as well.

Its been about a week since leaving Trabzon and arriving here in Tbilisi. What two contrasting Countries which you notice almost immediately on crossing the border at Sarpi. Having become used to the semi arid conditions in Turkey and the cycling along dual carriageway' literally within 20kms the scenery becomes verdent green with species very familiar including ferns, lilac and avenues of Horse Chestnut which are now turning to their autumn plumage. Although the main road, it is single carriageway and the vegetation enroaches to roadside making you feel far more part of the landscape than the former dual carriageway. It is around 20 kms to the main border city of Batumi which lies on the coast and which is undergoing development although retains much of its former character of markets and street traders along pot holed roads. Inevitably these areas appear chaotic with taxis and mini buses fighting for space and passengers, the whole scene being further complicated by the traders themselves pushing carts of various size and description carrying an array of produce. Batumi has a familiar border town feel and you sense the proliferation of hotels lends more to visitors from over the border enjoying the delights of female Russian ladies of the night.

As opposed to Turkey where locals were very forthcoming in their salutations as I passed, in Georgia they are much more reserved and tend to watch you as you go by. The horns still sound but I quickly realised that the majority were either wanting me out of the way or in respect of vehicles ahead of them whom they wish to pass. In view of this rebalance and other factors, unless it is blatently obvious that a passing vehicle is 'making contact', I dont acknowledge any sound as I did in Turkey. Now a word about roads and driving. Well actually I could write a thesis on this and perhaps it deserves one. The driving here is unbelieveably bad, this is accentuated by the single carriageway that extends to some 15km west of Gori or 90kms from Tbilisi (from there it becomes dual carriageway with a decent shoulder to cycle along). The Turkish know how to build good roads, well I think so, here there is virtually no shoulder to ride on, if your lucky you get about a foot and all the while you are negotiating pot holes and tarmac ridges which can throw you all over the place. As for the driving, one thing I noted is how few women drive. That having been said the only rule of the road is that there are no rules! The drivers have I gear (very fast) and one aim and that is to get in front of the vehicle ahead whatever the cost. They have no brakes and drive right up to the vehicle in front announcing their presence with a horn. This is magnified both ways since it is not uncommon for 3 vehicles alongside each other coming towards me and two or three in line coming up behind me and who gives way is like a game of chicken. Must be a macho thing, I dont know but it does keep a cyclist on his or her toes thats for sure. This is further compounded by cows and pigs that freely graze along the roadside and will often wander across as they feel. You would think this would cause carnage but it doesn't' the only road casualties are dogs' a lot of them littered on the road and roadsideFrom my perspective and the way we drive it would take some time to adjust to the Georgian school of motoring but I guess they know how the others will react so it must work. But believe me they have no regard whatsoever for cyclists, they chop you up, cut across you, stop right in front of you as if you wern't there. The strange thing is that when you arrive at the dual carriageway, there is space and the horns stop and the driving seems much more controlled.

Departing Batumi I headed up the coast towards Poti. It was almost, but not quite like riding in England and unlike Turkey, the villages fronted right onto the road, the melon vendors gradually changed to pottery vendors. Poti itself is nothing to write home about, a spawling old style city again with the focus on the market street scene. I had ridden into the City and was struck by my 3rd puncture in almost as many days. 'Cynth', I said, 'this cannot go on'. Two fellers came over and since it was clear what was needed, they insisted on taking me to the bike shop. This was great since we had to wander through dirt streets either side of which were crowded tin, stone and concrete shops selling all sorts with displays on the road itself. Just about every square inch was used. Hens clucking and pigs squealing added to the contained mayhem as it was early morning and the women were out looking for the best produce on offer. I purchased a new tyre, not  a top quality one by any means and I suppose I should have put that on the front and the good one on the back, but as I intend to put the wider tyres on either in Tbilisi or Baku I hoped that it would last the few hundred kilometers until then.

My route followed the main road, the only road from Poti to Tbilisi and passed through Kutaisi, a large city that has undergone a modern resurgence. It has a MacDonalds, not that that proves anything but at that particular time it was manna from heaven. Just as I arrived for breakfast, having spent the previous night in something resembling a shack (but it was quaint in its homespun way, the dry rot and damp adding to experience!), the heavens opened, and boy did they. A belter of a storm which continued unabated all day. The streets quickly flooded big time and i'll bet many ladies regretted putting on their dresses that day as the cars drove by them completely showering them head to foot! I was therefore in a bit of a dilemma; should I stay and stuff myself on chocolate shakes and coffee or go for it. I went for it and cycled the distance I needed to get to Zestaponi. It was unfortunate that I was told there was a hotel further in Kharaguili some 25kms distant. Well, there wasn't!  The town stopped and turned into a dirt track and the police politely advised me to go back from whence I had arrived. So I did. I should learn that very few people know much about whats around outside a radius of 5 miles! With a better day following I made Gori. This was the mountain section, and starting my assent up to 1,400m encouraging Cynthia to get her finger out and push easy a van pulled up. I was offered a lift into the next town of Khashuri some 20 kms ahead. I took up the kind offer reckoning that I was owed a few kms from the previous day and also to gain a drivers perspective, well what perspective I could see looking through the very cracked windscreen! Well it was as I expected, drive as fast as you can, overtake on a sharp bend since nothing will be coming the other way, going down a 1:7 no dont brake, accelerate, but we got there fine and that drive saved me a day cycling so I was very grateful.

Gori is arguably the second city, its not bad either, much of the build is post world war two since the city had a tough time at that point. Gori is characterised by wide streets with some attractive architecture although inevitably during my sojourn across Georgia, it is clear that my favourite Russian architect has been unleashed in designing some really ugly industrial plants and high rise tenements clad in concrete and tin! How the Soviets put sputnicks up i'll never know!

The ride into Tbilisi was great, decent roads, ideal weather and we knocked off the 75kms in under 3 and a half hours averaging around 23 kms per hour, pretty good going. Into Tbilisi itself thr road was good and easy to find the centre, although the centre is effectively divided by the river. Some of the architecture is beautiful, especially the Government and Public Buildings and there is a good feel to the city. As you would expect all the major players are there including the big hotel chains, getting across the arterial roads is difficult, well crossing small roads is difficult as  cars will not stop for you. I'm staying here for a while, this in part is enforced by my need to obtain an Azerbaijan Visa and also to meet my ex-boss Steve from Kazakhstan next thursday who is flying in as he is opening a new office. It will be great to catch up with him again. I have been advised that visas for Azerbaijan have been difficult to get for some reason. Sure it wont be a problem, hopefully not. My back up would be to bus it to Yereven, Armenia and pick up an Indian Visa, although if I have an Armenian stamp the Azerbaijanies wont let me in. Ahh the wonders of politics! Very confident it wll be ok though.

Found a hostel since prices here are very much more expensive than Turkey. The woman at the hostel (Waltzing Matilda) was as rude as you could possibly get, completey off hand and couldn't have cared less, refusing to let me bring Cynth into the building. Since it was late I decided to stay the night but having chucked my stuff in the room, went out to look for alternative accommodation. Found some nearby, and have a 4 bed dorm to myself, oh with balcony. Will do me fine. I will post the name of this place when I remember; but for those visiting Tbilis also look out for the Liberty Hostel; web page www.liberty-hostel.com . This is a clean and well priced place to stay if you are backpacking this way. That evening Greg, a Georgian lad who could speak perfect english was very apologetic and said I could immediately bring Cynthia from the deluge that was taking place out side. This morning I spoke with the owner, Tatiana who was also delightful and explained why I was leaving. Hopefully they can resolve the problem with this member of staff who clearly has issues and needs a thorough lesson in human relations. In my place at the moment is an Aussie called Justin, top bloke who only arrived last night. he has been travelling for 14 months and has some great experiences and a lot of information helpful to my progress. We went out today for something to eat and a few beers; well it was raining!! So coming up a bit of sightseeing, shopping, overhaul Cynth and sort out the visas, plenty on the go.

Oh as a final addition, I passed the 6,000 km mark, and have now cycled 6,087kms as I type. Will post as to progress on visas in due course. Cheers.