My final evening in Vientiane was something of a gamechanger in so far as my plans were concerned. Having spoken with a couple who had travelled from central Laos up to the capital, they suggested that apart from a road and a few villages that was it for the best part of 500 kms. Studying the map I realised that the first 200kms I would be heading north and only then back to the same latitude at Vientiane. I decided to head back through Thailand, so cycled to Ubon Thani (about 100kms), caught the sleeper train to Bangkok and then cycle from Bangkok to Cambodia. Having cycled from Bangkok on virtually the same route I didnt feel bad aboutdoing the return on a train.
Got through the Laos/Thai customs in 10 minutes, unbelievable. Wearing a football shirt seems to do it for these chaps, absolutely whistled through, chatting about English teams, no worries. Must say that I have found with all the customs guys, plus military and police from every country I have visited, just how helpful they are, especially when they know what I'm doing. Hope this continues as on more than one instance it has proved to be to my enormous benefit.
Arrived in Bangkok at 7am having enjoyed a cracking sleep on the train. Managing to lug Cynthia off the train, which is no mean feat given that the height of the carriage is 3 feet above the platform and the carriage doors are not exactly wide. In the main concourse I filled up on coffee and donuts and tried to work out how to get out of the city. Eventually, having completed a circuit of sorts, I got onto the right road, we are now talking some 4 hours later and going nowhere. My navigation skills are suspect as I freely admit, but it doesn't help when you have 3 roads all numbered the one you think you want. Anyhow, sorted eventually, and I think I now know my way around east Bangkok reasonably well, so always a plus.
The distance between Bangkok and Poipet (border) is about 3 days comfortable cycling and not pushing it. Mind you in this humidity its hard to rack up the mileage although I have improved from a pathetic 60kms a day when I first started cycling in Thailand heading to Laos, to a more respectable 100 - 110kms so I must be getting conditioned to it. It doesn't alter the fact that it is not the most favourite cycling conditions, although the malaria tabs have settled which is a real plus.
The topography to the Thai border is flat, wetlands and rice paddies, intersperced by numerous villages and towns. Fortunately, the towns were evenly spaced for each days cycling and my last night I held up 6kms from the border at Aranthaprathet, and set off early the following morning to cross at Poipet. Like all land border crossings, the whole place was bustling with markets, taxis, people wanting to take you here there and everywhere for cheap price! On the Thai side they have a scam whereby they tell you they will get you a Cambodian visa, not telling you that you still have to pay again as you hit the Cambodian immigration. Very naughty, Lonely Planet held this up, and thank you to them, not that I would have gone down that route. I was approached and politely told them where to go despite there insistance that without there help I would not get into Cambodia!!!!!!!! Nice try fellers but no lollypop!! Crossing the border was dead easy, just follow a dirt road along with loads of others, pass casinos and hotels inbetween, which look like real dens of iniquity, and then sort the visa for Cambodia which took $20 and 10 minutes, oh and the immigration chap was insistant that he look at Cynthia just to see her, and sound her klaxon. The klaxon has proved quite a hit with the locals, and often when in a shop I hear it sound with kids all around it. I heard the Cambodian Visa is a good one to get as its artistically very attractive; it is.
Having cleared the border I headed for Sissaphon about 50 kms up the road. As with Thailand the road was pretty straight with a decent cycle shoulder, either side being rice paddies, irrigated by numerous streams and rivers, where the locals fish with nets which they cast in the water. These places are also a magnate for kids who jump and swim in the often muddy waters; in fact thinking about it my experience of most kids is up to their necks in water. Unlike Thailand, which offered frequent petrolstations with either 7/11's or Tesco Lotus convenience stores, there is non of that in Cambodia. Here if you want a drink you pull in at a village where many of the shops are effectively extensions of their dwellings. Ususally a tin roof shack, dusty floor with sleeping area, while to the front is a display of rustic shelving with limited stock and a large red ice box where the drinks are kept. Very few places have a proper upright chiller, consequently the drinks arn't that cold. A bloke in a lorry comes by and delivers ice slabs which he cuts with a saw from a 6 foot by 1 foot section and places the cut ice slabs into the red box. I love stopping at these places, which I do often as it gives me a chance to say hello and put a dollar or two into their pockets. Without exception, when you stop and buy, the lady will bring out a chair to sit on in the shade. They really are so couteous and charming. I always make a big deal about thanking them. All the way the kids wave and shout hello; they pass you on motor scooters and turn and just melt you with their smiles and a wave. Cute doesnt do them justice. Some who have learn't a little English come and talk to you. They are something. Almost without exception every dwelling has a tv and its on all day; most households also seem to own a scooter. Now these are a piece of work and are used for just about everything. Few wear crash helmuts, and its not unusual to see mum, dad and up to 3 kids astride a 125cc honda; but the best is when they use these bikes to transport stuff. I saw one bike loaded so much with 4 sacks which I reckoned were 8 feet wide (as the cycle shoulder is about 6 feet) and at least 6 foot high; the rider was all over the place. They carry livestock, you often see 2 full sized dead pigs strapped on the back, trotters in the air. They also have a cunning version of trailers, designed for whatever task needed again for livestock or pallets of goods, very inventive.
I cycled from Sissaphon to Seim Reap (about 110 kms) arrived around 2 pm, located the tourist office and found an excellent place to stay for $12 and you get a breakfast thrown in. On the way in, scooters would come alongside and the drivers would chat to you and welcome you, just that, just being friendly. Seim Reap is a city about the size of Exeter and from the direction I entered, the first impression is definately that of a tourist city. You cycle down what I call the strip, big hotels either side, a bit like Vegas, well a very little bit, but you get the idea; then you hit the centre where there are examples of French colonial architecture which is very attractive. The main centre of activity is focused around the Old Market where there are a proliferation of bars, restaurants, massage parlors, shops etc. This is backpacker country and close to where my place is.
So ok, I have set the scene, people come here for one reason; to see Angkor Wat. This complex of temples lies about 7 kms to the north and having purchased a ticket enroute you are free to go and explore. Needless to say there are motor bikes to hire, bikes with carriage trailers, limos, buses; well the while myriad of transportation, making its way from Seim Reap to Angkor like ants. At this point, I assuming you are reasonably fit I would recommend cycling; take your time meandering along, stop off check out the temples, stop for a beer or two, its a great way of seeing this amazing piece of history and architecture. I am not going to give a history of the place, suffice to say Angkor which is the main temple means Capital City and was the capital of the Khmer empire that existed in this area between the 9th and 12th centuries. At its height more than 1 million people lived here. The size of the site is several kilometers square and you wouldnt walk it. Although Angkor Wat is the one everyone knows, its not my personal favourite; Bayon and some of the smaller temples are more interesting and visually impressive. If you are a keen historian you would want to spend weeks here, I am not, for me I like to focus on the vista impact and setting of a place, the wow factor I suppose. Thats me being a superficial kind of bloke when it comes to history; I want to be informed as to the general history but not to overturn every stone if you see what I mean. I have posted pics of the visit although I am sure most of you are familiar with this place. It has a wonderful setting including a lake moat around Angkor Wat itself and you travel through dense woodland.
I spent a day and for me that was sufficient, I took Cynth out for the day, it was strange riding her without panniers; the first time since I left England. Nearly fell off as the front span round being so light and responsive; I'm used to handling the equivalent of a tank. Thought I'd see what she could do on the flat and there was a stretch of 1.3 kms straight between temples. Managed to keep at or above 30 kms/hr for the entire length, felt quite pleased as she is a lump weighing in at 18kgs and fitted with 2.25" Marathon XR tyres so she is no sleek roadbike.
Angkor Wat is hugely impressive and a must see place. As I mentioned above, I tend to judge a place on its wow factor, how it affects me when I see it. I appreciate this is not how many people may judge a place and I fully accept that. I would place Angkor Wat third behind Home Park and the Tamar Bridge!!! Sorry, excuse the flippancy, I realise I am perhaps entering the realms of fantasy here, or maybe not! I would place Angkor Wat third behind the Taj Mahal (2nd) and a long way behind my personal favourite Machu Pichu (1st).
Planning on staying in Seim Reap for another day then catching a ferry across the water to Battembang (can't make Phnom Penh as you can only do that in monsoon season. Battembang is supposed to be definately worth seeing and it will be different to take the ferry. I hear they make a half decent cake there as well!! Then on to the capital but thats for later. For now a beer and supper later at the Red Piano which is pretty good. Oh, as I am sure most of you know Cambodia is very cheap so I can really pack the calories in in preparation for the next leg. Cheers.
Got through the Laos/Thai customs in 10 minutes, unbelievable. Wearing a football shirt seems to do it for these chaps, absolutely whistled through, chatting about English teams, no worries. Must say that I have found with all the customs guys, plus military and police from every country I have visited, just how helpful they are, especially when they know what I'm doing. Hope this continues as on more than one instance it has proved to be to my enormous benefit.
Arrived in Bangkok at 7am having enjoyed a cracking sleep on the train. Managing to lug Cynthia off the train, which is no mean feat given that the height of the carriage is 3 feet above the platform and the carriage doors are not exactly wide. In the main concourse I filled up on coffee and donuts and tried to work out how to get out of the city. Eventually, having completed a circuit of sorts, I got onto the right road, we are now talking some 4 hours later and going nowhere. My navigation skills are suspect as I freely admit, but it doesn't help when you have 3 roads all numbered the one you think you want. Anyhow, sorted eventually, and I think I now know my way around east Bangkok reasonably well, so always a plus.
The distance between Bangkok and Poipet (border) is about 3 days comfortable cycling and not pushing it. Mind you in this humidity its hard to rack up the mileage although I have improved from a pathetic 60kms a day when I first started cycling in Thailand heading to Laos, to a more respectable 100 - 110kms so I must be getting conditioned to it. It doesn't alter the fact that it is not the most favourite cycling conditions, although the malaria tabs have settled which is a real plus.
The topography to the Thai border is flat, wetlands and rice paddies, intersperced by numerous villages and towns. Fortunately, the towns were evenly spaced for each days cycling and my last night I held up 6kms from the border at Aranthaprathet, and set off early the following morning to cross at Poipet. Like all land border crossings, the whole place was bustling with markets, taxis, people wanting to take you here there and everywhere for cheap price! On the Thai side they have a scam whereby they tell you they will get you a Cambodian visa, not telling you that you still have to pay again as you hit the Cambodian immigration. Very naughty, Lonely Planet held this up, and thank you to them, not that I would have gone down that route. I was approached and politely told them where to go despite there insistance that without there help I would not get into Cambodia!!!!!!!! Nice try fellers but no lollypop!! Crossing the border was dead easy, just follow a dirt road along with loads of others, pass casinos and hotels inbetween, which look like real dens of iniquity, and then sort the visa for Cambodia which took $20 and 10 minutes, oh and the immigration chap was insistant that he look at Cynthia just to see her, and sound her klaxon. The klaxon has proved quite a hit with the locals, and often when in a shop I hear it sound with kids all around it. I heard the Cambodian Visa is a good one to get as its artistically very attractive; it is.
Having cleared the border I headed for Sissaphon about 50 kms up the road. As with Thailand the road was pretty straight with a decent cycle shoulder, either side being rice paddies, irrigated by numerous streams and rivers, where the locals fish with nets which they cast in the water. These places are also a magnate for kids who jump and swim in the often muddy waters; in fact thinking about it my experience of most kids is up to their necks in water. Unlike Thailand, which offered frequent petrolstations with either 7/11's or Tesco Lotus convenience stores, there is non of that in Cambodia. Here if you want a drink you pull in at a village where many of the shops are effectively extensions of their dwellings. Ususally a tin roof shack, dusty floor with sleeping area, while to the front is a display of rustic shelving with limited stock and a large red ice box where the drinks are kept. Very few places have a proper upright chiller, consequently the drinks arn't that cold. A bloke in a lorry comes by and delivers ice slabs which he cuts with a saw from a 6 foot by 1 foot section and places the cut ice slabs into the red box. I love stopping at these places, which I do often as it gives me a chance to say hello and put a dollar or two into their pockets. Without exception, when you stop and buy, the lady will bring out a chair to sit on in the shade. They really are so couteous and charming. I always make a big deal about thanking them. All the way the kids wave and shout hello; they pass you on motor scooters and turn and just melt you with their smiles and a wave. Cute doesnt do them justice. Some who have learn't a little English come and talk to you. They are something. Almost without exception every dwelling has a tv and its on all day; most households also seem to own a scooter. Now these are a piece of work and are used for just about everything. Few wear crash helmuts, and its not unusual to see mum, dad and up to 3 kids astride a 125cc honda; but the best is when they use these bikes to transport stuff. I saw one bike loaded so much with 4 sacks which I reckoned were 8 feet wide (as the cycle shoulder is about 6 feet) and at least 6 foot high; the rider was all over the place. They carry livestock, you often see 2 full sized dead pigs strapped on the back, trotters in the air. They also have a cunning version of trailers, designed for whatever task needed again for livestock or pallets of goods, very inventive.
I cycled from Sissaphon to Seim Reap (about 110 kms) arrived around 2 pm, located the tourist office and found an excellent place to stay for $12 and you get a breakfast thrown in. On the way in, scooters would come alongside and the drivers would chat to you and welcome you, just that, just being friendly. Seim Reap is a city about the size of Exeter and from the direction I entered, the first impression is definately that of a tourist city. You cycle down what I call the strip, big hotels either side, a bit like Vegas, well a very little bit, but you get the idea; then you hit the centre where there are examples of French colonial architecture which is very attractive. The main centre of activity is focused around the Old Market where there are a proliferation of bars, restaurants, massage parlors, shops etc. This is backpacker country and close to where my place is.
So ok, I have set the scene, people come here for one reason; to see Angkor Wat. This complex of temples lies about 7 kms to the north and having purchased a ticket enroute you are free to go and explore. Needless to say there are motor bikes to hire, bikes with carriage trailers, limos, buses; well the while myriad of transportation, making its way from Seim Reap to Angkor like ants. At this point, I assuming you are reasonably fit I would recommend cycling; take your time meandering along, stop off check out the temples, stop for a beer or two, its a great way of seeing this amazing piece of history and architecture. I am not going to give a history of the place, suffice to say Angkor which is the main temple means Capital City and was the capital of the Khmer empire that existed in this area between the 9th and 12th centuries. At its height more than 1 million people lived here. The size of the site is several kilometers square and you wouldnt walk it. Although Angkor Wat is the one everyone knows, its not my personal favourite; Bayon and some of the smaller temples are more interesting and visually impressive. If you are a keen historian you would want to spend weeks here, I am not, for me I like to focus on the vista impact and setting of a place, the wow factor I suppose. Thats me being a superficial kind of bloke when it comes to history; I want to be informed as to the general history but not to overturn every stone if you see what I mean. I have posted pics of the visit although I am sure most of you are familiar with this place. It has a wonderful setting including a lake moat around Angkor Wat itself and you travel through dense woodland.
I spent a day and for me that was sufficient, I took Cynth out for the day, it was strange riding her without panniers; the first time since I left England. Nearly fell off as the front span round being so light and responsive; I'm used to handling the equivalent of a tank. Thought I'd see what she could do on the flat and there was a stretch of 1.3 kms straight between temples. Managed to keep at or above 30 kms/hr for the entire length, felt quite pleased as she is a lump weighing in at 18kgs and fitted with 2.25" Marathon XR tyres so she is no sleek roadbike.
Angkor Wat is hugely impressive and a must see place. As I mentioned above, I tend to judge a place on its wow factor, how it affects me when I see it. I appreciate this is not how many people may judge a place and I fully accept that. I would place Angkor Wat third behind Home Park and the Tamar Bridge!!! Sorry, excuse the flippancy, I realise I am perhaps entering the realms of fantasy here, or maybe not! I would place Angkor Wat third behind the Taj Mahal (2nd) and a long way behind my personal favourite Machu Pichu (1st).
Planning on staying in Seim Reap for another day then catching a ferry across the water to Battembang (can't make Phnom Penh as you can only do that in monsoon season. Battembang is supposed to be definately worth seeing and it will be different to take the ferry. I hear they make a half decent cake there as well!! Then on to the capital but thats for later. For now a beer and supper later at the Red Piano which is pretty good. Oh, as I am sure most of you know Cambodia is very cheap so I can really pack the calories in in preparation for the next leg. Cheers.
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