Its a small town, population around 25,000 situated some 300+ kms north of Vienitiane and it could be a whole word away. Access is by bus or plane; the latter costs around $90 whereas the bus takes 10 hours and follows a series of S bends pretty much from start to finish. Most visitors take the bus; three leave every day, perhaps more now that high season is upon this neck of the woods. High season being November to February, coinciding with the more temperate climate.
Luang Prabang (hereafter shortened to LP) is like nowhere else I have visited, perhaps second only to Machu Pichu. It is a gem that unfortunately has been discovered, and will undoubtably become a backpackers favourite, well its getting that way already. The bus ride up was full of highs, I recommend that at least one direction you should travel in daylight, simply to see the unbelievable mountain formations rising from the jungle. Vertical rock and sugar loaves in all directions form an almost unique vista, it looks like something out of Jurassic Park and to be honest if we had seen brachiopods grazing it wouldn't have been out of place. The mountain villages, quite isolated although at roadside each form there own community. Most have a school and kids cycle to and from holding umbrellas for extra shade, looks like Mary Poppins. All the kids wear uniform and all are very smart, which given the dust and the washing facilities is something. Each village has a shop and as evening draws on, everyone heads to the communal washing area which may be a stream or pond, and having washed they all troup back to the village together. There is a real sense of community here, people eat together and look after each other. Each village seems to have communal washing lines and the harvest of red chilli's drying on cloth or a tin bowl that looks like a dustbin lid. There is a serenity about the lao people, they smile always say hello and are delighted when you take an interest in their produce. The whole way of lie avoids confrontation, I am sure if you shouted or argued or showed any form of verbal aggression, they would not know what to do. They are lovely people. What surprised me both travelling through Lao and in LP itself was the apparent quality of life. The village properties are built of cane or brick, substantial and I have not seen any beggars since arriving in the Country. All around is lush broad leaved vegetation with the backdrop of the aforementioned mountains.
LP itself, well how do I describe this place. There aren't enough superlatives really. Nestling beside the Mekong river, this town features some wonderful colonial architecture and heritage. It is a UNESCO site so although growth will occur one would like to think that the current character would be retained, but Im not holding my breath. The locals here know this place is about to explode onto the tourist map big time, and the tour operators and tuk tuk drivers already have the well worn tourist phrases in English and are targetting every westerner or non-Lao that passes. There are a lot of guest houses, all appear really well maintained, plus temples and markets and a shed load of bars and restaurants in town and along the river. Having a beer watching the sun set on the river is a real pleasure. LP is gearing up for the season, the sound of hammering neever far away. There are only two main streets, one 'inland' the other along the Mekong, each linked by a series of narrow streets mostly with guest houses. The vegetation is colourful, the town is very clean and it is a delight just to wander aimlessly around it at leisure. From here you can take a variety of tours to see watefalls, trek etc and a couple days is plenty to get a good feel for the town itself. There are loads of places to hire cycles and motorbikes if you wish to explore further. I am sure LP will change as more visitors put it on their itinerary; I have heard that China intends to build a railway through Laos to Vientiane which supposedly would link with LP, I hope that doesn't happen as I can't imagine the character remaining the same after that. 2014 is said to be the date this is going to take place, so if you want to see LP as is now, best get here sooner rather than later. As with all Laos, there is a very relaxed atmosphere here, beyond the river is the jungle canopy which extends down to the waters edge, beyond which are the mountain ranges which seem to curve around enclosing the whole scene. It is beautiful. I can see why they call it Shangri La it must be pretty close to it, and I think the locals have now woken up to this so lets just hope the balance stays so that visitors in years to come will feel the same sensation about this place that exists today.
Will try and get photos posted asap, this is always a problem for some reason in Laos, but if not here, then certainly when I get back to the capital.
As always, its great to catch up with everyone who kindly sends emails and texts; forget facebook, they have shut my account down, this is because I am visiting so many countries that a security block kicks in. Not bothered, as most of you know I thing facebook is a total waste of space and only signed up to it for the benefit of the blog. Thank you to those who do contact me though, its great to get your news, and of course get up to speed on the hot issues of the day like Plymouth winning again yesterday. Awesome result, even better when that rabble in red and white strips up the road lost at home.
Have given some thought as to progress from here. Originally it had been my intention to cycle through Laos into Cambodia. This is fine until the map shows me that there is only one road border crossing into Cambodia and after that I have to head south virtually to the Vietnam border then backtrack to Seim Reep and Ankor Wat. Then I would have to cycle back again to Phnom Penh. So I think I will catch the train back to Bangkok, and then cycle from ther eastwards into Cambodia. So effectively, keeping the journey going in an east direction; the cycle to Laos being an offshoot so to speak. I shall be sorry to leave LP but I know that there is so much ahead so hey, lets get travelling!
Luang Prabang (hereafter shortened to LP) is like nowhere else I have visited, perhaps second only to Machu Pichu. It is a gem that unfortunately has been discovered, and will undoubtably become a backpackers favourite, well its getting that way already. The bus ride up was full of highs, I recommend that at least one direction you should travel in daylight, simply to see the unbelievable mountain formations rising from the jungle. Vertical rock and sugar loaves in all directions form an almost unique vista, it looks like something out of Jurassic Park and to be honest if we had seen brachiopods grazing it wouldn't have been out of place. The mountain villages, quite isolated although at roadside each form there own community. Most have a school and kids cycle to and from holding umbrellas for extra shade, looks like Mary Poppins. All the kids wear uniform and all are very smart, which given the dust and the washing facilities is something. Each village has a shop and as evening draws on, everyone heads to the communal washing area which may be a stream or pond, and having washed they all troup back to the village together. There is a real sense of community here, people eat together and look after each other. Each village seems to have communal washing lines and the harvest of red chilli's drying on cloth or a tin bowl that looks like a dustbin lid. There is a serenity about the lao people, they smile always say hello and are delighted when you take an interest in their produce. The whole way of lie avoids confrontation, I am sure if you shouted or argued or showed any form of verbal aggression, they would not know what to do. They are lovely people. What surprised me both travelling through Lao and in LP itself was the apparent quality of life. The village properties are built of cane or brick, substantial and I have not seen any beggars since arriving in the Country. All around is lush broad leaved vegetation with the backdrop of the aforementioned mountains.
LP itself, well how do I describe this place. There aren't enough superlatives really. Nestling beside the Mekong river, this town features some wonderful colonial architecture and heritage. It is a UNESCO site so although growth will occur one would like to think that the current character would be retained, but Im not holding my breath. The locals here know this place is about to explode onto the tourist map big time, and the tour operators and tuk tuk drivers already have the well worn tourist phrases in English and are targetting every westerner or non-Lao that passes. There are a lot of guest houses, all appear really well maintained, plus temples and markets and a shed load of bars and restaurants in town and along the river. Having a beer watching the sun set on the river is a real pleasure. LP is gearing up for the season, the sound of hammering neever far away. There are only two main streets, one 'inland' the other along the Mekong, each linked by a series of narrow streets mostly with guest houses. The vegetation is colourful, the town is very clean and it is a delight just to wander aimlessly around it at leisure. From here you can take a variety of tours to see watefalls, trek etc and a couple days is plenty to get a good feel for the town itself. There are loads of places to hire cycles and motorbikes if you wish to explore further. I am sure LP will change as more visitors put it on their itinerary; I have heard that China intends to build a railway through Laos to Vientiane which supposedly would link with LP, I hope that doesn't happen as I can't imagine the character remaining the same after that. 2014 is said to be the date this is going to take place, so if you want to see LP as is now, best get here sooner rather than later. As with all Laos, there is a very relaxed atmosphere here, beyond the river is the jungle canopy which extends down to the waters edge, beyond which are the mountain ranges which seem to curve around enclosing the whole scene. It is beautiful. I can see why they call it Shangri La it must be pretty close to it, and I think the locals have now woken up to this so lets just hope the balance stays so that visitors in years to come will feel the same sensation about this place that exists today.
Will try and get photos posted asap, this is always a problem for some reason in Laos, but if not here, then certainly when I get back to the capital.
As always, its great to catch up with everyone who kindly sends emails and texts; forget facebook, they have shut my account down, this is because I am visiting so many countries that a security block kicks in. Not bothered, as most of you know I thing facebook is a total waste of space and only signed up to it for the benefit of the blog. Thank you to those who do contact me though, its great to get your news, and of course get up to speed on the hot issues of the day like Plymouth winning again yesterday. Awesome result, even better when that rabble in red and white strips up the road lost at home.
Have given some thought as to progress from here. Originally it had been my intention to cycle through Laos into Cambodia. This is fine until the map shows me that there is only one road border crossing into Cambodia and after that I have to head south virtually to the Vietnam border then backtrack to Seim Reep and Ankor Wat. Then I would have to cycle back again to Phnom Penh. So I think I will catch the train back to Bangkok, and then cycle from ther eastwards into Cambodia. So effectively, keeping the journey going in an east direction; the cycle to Laos being an offshoot so to speak. I shall be sorry to leave LP but I know that there is so much ahead so hey, lets get travelling!
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