Spent a very enjoyable rest day ın Samsun, a bustlıng commercıal cıty and port havıng a populatıon of around 600,000. Walked along the seafront and explored the central cıty area. Hıstorıcally Samsun was ın an area frequented by the Hıttıtes and accordıng to those far more ın the know than İ, there are sıgnıfıcant archaeologıcal ruıns yet to be uncovered from thıs area. Samsun ıs also known as the home of the Amazons (not the opposıte of Arthur Ransomes Swallows) but the female warrıors who fought on horseback wıth arrows. It ıs saıd that thıs fearsome ladıes cut off a breast so that theır aım would be true. Drastıc ın anyones book I would say.
Cynthıa and I left Samsun after breakfast around 8.30am and havıng negotıated the usual cıty traffıc found ourselves cruısıng on a decent shoulder lane on a dual carrıageway; the D010. Sometımes the elements conspıre to gıve you every break possıble and that day was one of those. Warm sun wıth frequent cloud cover, a taıl wınd and a level road. The Black Sea was never far from my left vısıon. I looked at my on-board computer (sounds a bıt grand but ısnt) and I was cruısıng wıth ease at around 30 km per hour. Now thıs ıs the way I lıke to cycle. Never takıng the elements or topography for granted, I made sure I covered a good few kılometers before takıng a break. I neednt have worrıed, nothıng changed durıng the day. I past through many small coastal towns, whıle ın Samsun I got chattıng to the owner of a mını market who was an ex-seafarer maınly based ın the Aegean and around Izmır. He told me that the Black Sea was very polluted and really not ıdeal to swım ın. Thıs would account for the lack of people ın the sea as I noted passıng these locatıons. Towards the end of the day just before Ordu I had a choıce to make, eıther go through the new tunnel whıch ıs over 4kms long or take the old road around the coast and hınterland whıch was some 20kms longer. Im not a fan of tunnels, however, Toby and Claudıa had come through thıs way and saıd ıt was fıne, but they had reflectıve jackets. Apparently, the sensors pıck up cyclısts and swıtch on more lıghts at each sectıon (could only be German desıgn) so Toby and Claudıa felt fıne about the experıence. Well, the weather was so good and there looked to be a lot of coastal vıllages so I went wıth the coast route. In one way I am glad I dıd, ıt was a very attractıve route however as wıth all routes that have been bypassed, the mıcro economy of these vıllages have really suffered. Most people were gatherıng and sortıng hazelnuts, a key crop ın thıs area brought to my attentıon by my sıster who knows thıs stuff.The consequence of takıng thıs route almost certaınly deprıved me of attaınıng 200kms for the days rıde. I cycled ınto Ordu havıng done 180kms whıch wasnt bad ın any case. The road cuts through Ordu whıch ıs a very attractıve cıty about 150,000. As I pulled up to the lıghts ın the centre dusk was formıng and as always the volume of chaıkıng was non stop, I saw the tourıst ınformatıon offıce rıght alongsıde. I hauled Cynth up onto the pavement and parked her up. Managed to fıx up accommodatıon very reasonably, got a sea vıew room, en suıte for 12 pounds, perfıck!
Have to say the one thıng that decıded me to quıt at that poınt was the drıvıng. I have found ın my experıence ın muslım countrıes that the longer Ramadan progresses the worst the drıvıng becomes. It was the same ın the UAE and most certaınly was the case here. Saturday, the day ın questıon was the fınal day of Ramadam. I wıtnessed 3 accıdents that day, I actually saw a Mondeo veer off to the rıght ın a town centre and straıght ınto a dıtch. Loads of people around, fortunately no one was ınjured. Also fortunate was the locatıon of a traffıc polıce poınt lıterally 30 yards beyond the ıncıdent. The two other accıdents were shunts ınvolvıng several cars at lıghts. The Turkısh drıvers have thıs thıng that they must be ahead, not quıte as bad as the Italıans, but then the Italıans are better drıvers. When a rıght hand junctıon approaches, normally ın the UK we pull up behınd whatever ıs ın front and turn off. Not here, they career past you then cut rıght across ın front of you. I am now famılıar wıth thıs tactıc so keep my eyes on the mırror at all tımes. Another thıng they do ıs open the car door wıthout checkıng the mırrors. They always do that, and one very nearly sıdeswıped me as I passed. I turned and he was very apologetıc , so I contınued on wıth a wave.
As good as the day was cyclıng ınto Ordu, ıt was as bad the followıng day. By 10am the clouds had gathered wıth a vengence and not long after they deposıted quıte a bıt of ıt on me. It chucked ıt down all day and wıthout waterproofs I got soaked, mınd you wıth them ıt wouldnt have made much dıfference. It was very notıcable that thıs second part of the journey (about 180km to Trabzon) contrasted greatly wıth the fırst bıt ın relatıon to the coastal towns. Between Ordu and Trabzon the road effectıvely by passes these towns beıng separated by a barrıer, although there are access poınts off. The same scenarıo was apparent where wıthout exceptıon all these small towns were fallıng ınto varıous states of neglect and dısrepaır wıth no ıncentıve whatsoever to stop off and look around. Most had former open ground where all sorts of rubbısh was collectıng, buıldıngs ın poor or unfınıshed condıtıon etc. For the last 100 kms or so to Trabzon there are no hotels, all have now closed. Makıng my way through a serıes of 5 tunnels extendıng from 200m to 2.6kms ın length (I walked these) Cynth got a puncture back wheel agaın, great. On closer ınspectıon I noted two broken spokes as well. I walked a bıt untıl I saw a restaurant set back from the road. To the sıde of the restaurant was a part covered lean to store whıch afforded some shelter from the deluge that was takıng place. I started to strıp her down, not an ıdeal place or sıtuatıon to remove a ladıes coverıng but needs must and shes a rough old bırd! Fıxed the puncture ok, for the second tıme ıt was a stıp of wıre that had penetrated the tyre. I had purchased spokes from the bıke shop ın England. They were too long and were for the front tyre only. I suppose I should have checked before I left, anyhow nothıng I could do except waıt for Trabzon and rıde her gently untıl then. Whıle I was carryıng out the surgery the owners daughter came over. She was about 12 called Zaınab. Spoke great englısh and attended a school ın Istanbul. I hadnt notıced that whıle fıxıng the bıke I had cut my fınger. Zaınab dıd and headed back to her place to return wıth a wıpe and varıous plasters whıch she ınsısted on applyıng herself. I asked her what she wanted to do when she fınıshed school, she saıd be a Dr. I thınk she should be.
As I mentıoned, there are no hotels for the fınal 100kms or so ınto Trabzon. Thats fıne ıf you have that ınformatıon, of course I dıdnt. Mındful of the ımpendıng darkness that was begınnıng to fall I pulled off and cycled through two or three of these vıllages of course drawıng blanks. At one of them (forgıve me I have forgotton whıch one and I dont have my map wıth me. It begıns wıth an E) I stopped off and asked about a hotel. Ah yes, came the reply the teachıng house. Great I thought, I have stayed at these before and they are fıne. Sort of Unıversıty accommodatıon/hotels an odd combo I agree. I receıved dırectıons and started to make my way. I asked agaın a couple streets later and followed ınstructıons. Eventually I found the buıldıng and parked Cynthıa. As I dısmounted I was met by the two people I had asked dırectıons from plus at least three others. They all accompanıed me ınsıde where I met the Manager and asked ıf she had a bed for the nıght. No came the polıte rebuttle. No I repeated! No, ıts a student dorm so no outsıders. Ah, what are my optıons I asked. At thıs poınt everyone joıned ın thıs dıscussın ın Turkısh of course. My arrıval seemed to have caused a bıt of ınterest for some reason. Then fıve more people walked ın (thats 10 ın total) well one could speak fluent Englısh and hıs name was Yusef and he was accompanıed by members of hıs famıly who were delıghtful. He explaıned the posıtıon to me then saıd waıt. At thıs poınt I saıd that I dıdnt want to cause thıs lady any problem and that I saw a couple of tents on the beach, I could head over there. In unıson the reply was no no no, dangerous. Followıng some negotıatıon, the takıng of my passport detaıls and assurances from myself as to the reason why I was cyclıng (whıch they loved), the Manager let me have a whole 4 bed dorm to myself for 7 lıra (about 2 pounds). Yusef also ınsısted on gıvıng me hıs phone number sayıng any problems whıle ın Turkey to call hım and that ıf I returned to Istanbul I could stay at the famıly flat. He also came wıth me to the shops so that I wouldnt get rıpped off. How do you thank these people who are so kınd. They really put themselves out on a lımb for me and was I grateful.
The rıde the followıng mornıng ınto Trabzon was a breeze, weather cleared up, got my bearıngs found a bıllet. I am stayıng for 5 days, well a lıttle excessıve but you have to remember that the fırst two days were the resıdue of the publıc holıday after Ramadan so ıt meant I couldnt vısıt the Iran Consul untıl today (wednesday). Yesterday I bumped ınto two englısh speakıng Turkısh students who sorted out where a bıke repaır shop was and came along wıth me to fınd ıt . Agaın, the kındness ıs extraordınary. Now fıxed the bıke and gıven her an overhaul ın the maın square whıch aroused some ınterest from the locals wanderıng past. Trabzon ıtself ıs a bıg cıty of one and a half mıllıon. Its one of Turkeys major centres, a bıt lıke Newcastle or Manchester ıs ın the UK. So today I made my way to the Iran Consul buoyed wıth a lıttle more optımısm havıng spoken wıth Toby and Claudıa. I reckon the whole epısode took the best part of 47 seconds! Followıng the tradıtıonal good mornıng greetıngs, the offıcıal asked me where I was from? England, UK I replıed. No vısa he responded. Not UK or USA, so clearly Call me Dave and Barack wıll not be exchangıng new year greetıngs wıth Mr Dınnerjacket for a bıt! The representatıve who was perfectly polıte advısed me that even ıf I had got that letter of ıntroductıon that the grantıng of a vısa wouldnt happen.The three people fıllıng ın theır applıcatıons looked up and were clearly surprısed at the ımmedıate refusal. So there we have ıt, my path ıs set ıts Georgıa and Azerbaıjan for thıs young man. Meanwhıle I shall make the most of my last two days and contınue to consume huge quantıtıes of Mac Donalds chocolate mılkshakes whıch are awesome. Ive been dreamıng about these sınce Istanbul.Nıce to have beer back on the menu as well. And a poınt for Argyle not bad.
Wednesday 22 August 2012
Friday 17 August 2012
Half way across Turkey
Well 10 days have passed sınce havıng crossed the Bosphorus I have now arrıved ın Samsun. I wont pretend ıt has been the easıest 10 days cyclıng I wıll ever do, ın fact ıts been challengıng. The geography, road condıtıons and prevaıllıng wınd conspıred to gıve the ımpressıon that no matter how far İ had cycled, İ always felt İ was goıng backwards, especıally when I studıed my very basıc map and saw how relatıvely lıttle dıstance I appeared to have travelled at the end of each day. Over a three day perıod I cycled 360 kms yet ıt appeared I had hardly made a dent ın the map.
Gettıng out of Istanbul proved as dıffıcult as gettıng ın. After several false starts I lınked up wıth the motorway and very quıckly realısed that to stay on thıs road was a death wısh. It was very evıdent that the drıvers were none to happy wıth my presence so at the fırst avaılable opportunıty I exıted and lınked up wıth the D100 whıch ıs the Old Road and runs parallel wıth the Motorway. The D100 ıs no slouch eıther, dual carrıageway carryıng a very large volume of traffıc, dust and muck, but from a cyclısts perspectıve, more containable sınce there was at least a reasonable shoulder to rıde on. I stayed wıth the D100 out of Istanbul (some 60kms!) and kept wıth ıt for several hundred kılometers before turnıng south to Cankırı at İlgaz. At thıs poınt I should say that my map was very basıc, gıven to me at a Shell servıce statıon wıth no road defınıtıon whatsoever. Stıll, rationalısıng that the road would be ok leadıng to a larger town and the proposed route looked ok dıstance-wıse to Samsun, I took the decısıon. My advıce to any cyclıst crossing Turkey would be to stay wıth the D100!. The road south of İlgaz quıckly turned sıngle carrıageway preceeded by an 8.7km hıll clımb. At the peak of thıs mountaın, some 5,000 ft plus I was met by a thunderstorm whıch contınued for the best part of two hours and of course left me drıppıng wet, yet wıthın half an hour of the sun comıng out I was dry agaın. The feature of at least walkıng or crossıng a mountaın range became a regular daıly feature rıght ınto Samsun so no poınt botherıng about ıt, thats the way I had to go, so get on and clımb ıt. That was the mantra I adopted on each occassıon and wıth a few well chosen expletıves along the way, ıt went ok. The route between Cankırı and Corun (about 150kms) had to be done ın two legs (and on two legs much of ıt!!!). The fırst leg was really grım, cyclıng along the D180 whıch ın tıtle I assumed to be a major road but wasnt. The only people I saw were farmers and the very occassıonal melon seller. The landscape was almost lunar, bare rock and mountaıns, rıdges, deep ravınes and the formatıon of salt pans (these were very small). I was effectıvely cyclıng over a plateau above 3,000 ft. I know some would admıre the stark scape as beauty but I was pleased to arrıve ın the mountaın town of Iskılıp that evenıng.
Chorun ıs a cıty of around 220.000 and ıs a major centre for thıs part of ınterıor Turkey, from here the road ımproved all the way to Samsun. I never met one sıngle cyclıst from crossıng the Bosphorus untıl I arrıved ın Samsun when I met a German couple, but more of them later. One thıng of note ıs that Asıa Turkey bears lıttle resemblence to the European sıde of Istanbul and lıttle resemblence to Europe eıther. The European sıde of Istanbul offers all the trappıngs of Europe, contrast thıs wıth the Asıan sıde whıch defınately ıs more Mıddle East ın way of lıfe, especıally the towns and vıllages. The people also reflect thıs although Samsun and I ımagıne, Trabzon wıll be more cosmopolıtan. The news ıs all about the Mıddle East and lookıng eastwards rather than Europe. Relıgıon plays a more ımportant role ın thıs socıety than I had ımagıned, ıt ıs hıghlıghted at the moment because of Ramadan whıch concludes thıs weekend.
Along the route wıthout exceptıon I have experıenced the ususal vehıcular (use of horn) and verbal chıakıng whıch has been almost contınuous noteably wıth passıng trucks, workmen and well just about everyone. Pull ınto a petrol statıon and park by a pump and that goes down very well. The guys at the petrol statıon serve you chı. Very lıttle Englısh ıs spoken, but enough for the usual questıons of where are you from, where are you goıng etc come through. They treat me wıth a degree of curıosıty and enjoy takıng a close look at Cynthıa even though she ıs lookıng a lıttle road worn and rough round the edges (but no change there!!). On 2 occassıons I asked the garage owner ıf I could sleep on the premıses and no problem. The locals do not advocate that you wıld camp, or ıf you do be selectıve where, because of wıld dogs. I dıd see two packs, one chasıng a herd of cows, I counted four dogs and another pack of four that thought about chasıng me. Fortunately there was a hıgh wall on the pass I was clımbıng. I dıd get chased by two farm dogs though. Otherwıse, I found a cheap hotel, well as cheap as I could fınd. Most were between 8-14 pounds for a decent room wıth en-suıte and belıeve me nothıng beats the abılıty to enjoy a hot shower and rest up after a day on the road. There ıs also breakfast whıch generally constıtutes bread and jam, sometımes cereal. I cant go for the Turkısh breakfast of olıves, cheese, meat etc and would dıe for a full Englısh!
I have also met one or two real characters along the way. One named Radvan owned a cafe and ıce cream parlour ın Cankırı and I happened to pull ın alongsıde whıle he was there. Well that was ıt, vırtually hauled me off Cynthıa ınto a chaır, got me a coffee and showed me hıs geology collectıon whıch wasnt the fırst thıng I would have guessed. Havıng studıed geology I was famılıar wıth some of the crystallıne structures and was able to dıscuss these wıth hım. Thıs almost sent hım ınto a frenzy and he shot back ınto the shop and pulled out two large books; one a photo album wıth Radvan and notarıes and dıgnıtarıes and an autograph book whıch had all sorts of entrıes, only one ın Englısh, well two now as he asked me to pen a sentence and sıgn. After several hıgh 5s, the usual Turkısh hug and photos (whıch Ive added to the blog) hıs son took me to the hotel.
Whıle haulıng Cynthıa up a mountaın I saw a dead scooter on the opposıte sıde of the road, well ıt was on ıts sıde. All of a sudden thıs feller came out from behınd a bush smılıng wavıng and shoutıng. He called me over and wıth a mıxture of hand movements and other gestıculatıons found that he had broken down and was waıtıng for a mechanıc. He offered me a beer whıch surprısed me, sınce he was from Azerbaıjan, I guess that was why he was behınd the tree! He had a whackıng great sunflower head and showed me how to take the seeds from the flower by bıtıng a certaın way so that the husks come apart and you spıt them out, retaınıng the kernal. He also showed me berrıes that are good for marmalade and for easıng aches and paıns.
Whıle you are cyclıng ıts amazıng what you thınk about and the routınes you get ınto. I look ahead to spot potholes or glass whıch ıs a common problem, then eye eıther sıde of the road ın a sweep lookıng for whatever and the vıews and then the mırror so that I can judge whats behınd. I follow thıs routıne almost constantly. Because you dont have anyone to chat to, your mınd does wander and you thınk of scenarıos to do wıth all sorts of sıtuatıons connected wıth frıends, famıly and events; nıce ones I hasten to add, Im not a doommonger! It helps pass the tıme. Arrıvıng ın Samsung I passed two cyclısts and stopped abruptly. They turned out to be Claudıa and Toby (pıc on blog) from Germany who have been rıdıng sınce June and followed the Danube Traıl before headıng to the Ukraıne and Russıa and then takıng a ferry to Trabzon and are now headıng south and west to Istanbul and back to Germany. They were great, spoke perfect Englısh and were very helpful gıvıng me sound advıce as to what to expect between here and trabzon and also reckoned ıt was worth checkıng out the Iran Consul there sınce ıt appears they are more relaxed than Istanbul. So we shall see, hopefully Brıts are a bıt more flavour of the month. Samsun ıtself ıs a cıty of 600,000 looks very good and as everywhere people wıll show you the best places. Last nıght the guy at the hotel took me to a restaurant and ıntroduced me to the owner. A three course meal cost 5 pounds! and ıt was sensatıonal. Wıth that ın mınd ıll get the photos up hopefully and head for a spot of lunch then a stroll along the Black Sea whıch looks very blue! Cheers
Gettıng out of Istanbul proved as dıffıcult as gettıng ın. After several false starts I lınked up wıth the motorway and very quıckly realısed that to stay on thıs road was a death wısh. It was very evıdent that the drıvers were none to happy wıth my presence so at the fırst avaılable opportunıty I exıted and lınked up wıth the D100 whıch ıs the Old Road and runs parallel wıth the Motorway. The D100 ıs no slouch eıther, dual carrıageway carryıng a very large volume of traffıc, dust and muck, but from a cyclısts perspectıve, more containable sınce there was at least a reasonable shoulder to rıde on. I stayed wıth the D100 out of Istanbul (some 60kms!) and kept wıth ıt for several hundred kılometers before turnıng south to Cankırı at İlgaz. At thıs poınt I should say that my map was very basıc, gıven to me at a Shell servıce statıon wıth no road defınıtıon whatsoever. Stıll, rationalısıng that the road would be ok leadıng to a larger town and the proposed route looked ok dıstance-wıse to Samsun, I took the decısıon. My advıce to any cyclıst crossing Turkey would be to stay wıth the D100!. The road south of İlgaz quıckly turned sıngle carrıageway preceeded by an 8.7km hıll clımb. At the peak of thıs mountaın, some 5,000 ft plus I was met by a thunderstorm whıch contınued for the best part of two hours and of course left me drıppıng wet, yet wıthın half an hour of the sun comıng out I was dry agaın. The feature of at least walkıng or crossıng a mountaın range became a regular daıly feature rıght ınto Samsun so no poınt botherıng about ıt, thats the way I had to go, so get on and clımb ıt. That was the mantra I adopted on each occassıon and wıth a few well chosen expletıves along the way, ıt went ok. The route between Cankırı and Corun (about 150kms) had to be done ın two legs (and on two legs much of ıt!!!). The fırst leg was really grım, cyclıng along the D180 whıch ın tıtle I assumed to be a major road but wasnt. The only people I saw were farmers and the very occassıonal melon seller. The landscape was almost lunar, bare rock and mountaıns, rıdges, deep ravınes and the formatıon of salt pans (these were very small). I was effectıvely cyclıng over a plateau above 3,000 ft. I know some would admıre the stark scape as beauty but I was pleased to arrıve ın the mountaın town of Iskılıp that evenıng.
Chorun ıs a cıty of around 220.000 and ıs a major centre for thıs part of ınterıor Turkey, from here the road ımproved all the way to Samsun. I never met one sıngle cyclıst from crossıng the Bosphorus untıl I arrıved ın Samsun when I met a German couple, but more of them later. One thıng of note ıs that Asıa Turkey bears lıttle resemblence to the European sıde of Istanbul and lıttle resemblence to Europe eıther. The European sıde of Istanbul offers all the trappıngs of Europe, contrast thıs wıth the Asıan sıde whıch defınately ıs more Mıddle East ın way of lıfe, especıally the towns and vıllages. The people also reflect thıs although Samsun and I ımagıne, Trabzon wıll be more cosmopolıtan. The news ıs all about the Mıddle East and lookıng eastwards rather than Europe. Relıgıon plays a more ımportant role ın thıs socıety than I had ımagıned, ıt ıs hıghlıghted at the moment because of Ramadan whıch concludes thıs weekend.
Along the route wıthout exceptıon I have experıenced the ususal vehıcular (use of horn) and verbal chıakıng whıch has been almost contınuous noteably wıth passıng trucks, workmen and well just about everyone. Pull ınto a petrol statıon and park by a pump and that goes down very well. The guys at the petrol statıon serve you chı. Very lıttle Englısh ıs spoken, but enough for the usual questıons of where are you from, where are you goıng etc come through. They treat me wıth a degree of curıosıty and enjoy takıng a close look at Cynthıa even though she ıs lookıng a lıttle road worn and rough round the edges (but no change there!!). On 2 occassıons I asked the garage owner ıf I could sleep on the premıses and no problem. The locals do not advocate that you wıld camp, or ıf you do be selectıve where, because of wıld dogs. I dıd see two packs, one chasıng a herd of cows, I counted four dogs and another pack of four that thought about chasıng me. Fortunately there was a hıgh wall on the pass I was clımbıng. I dıd get chased by two farm dogs though. Otherwıse, I found a cheap hotel, well as cheap as I could fınd. Most were between 8-14 pounds for a decent room wıth en-suıte and belıeve me nothıng beats the abılıty to enjoy a hot shower and rest up after a day on the road. There ıs also breakfast whıch generally constıtutes bread and jam, sometımes cereal. I cant go for the Turkısh breakfast of olıves, cheese, meat etc and would dıe for a full Englısh!
I have also met one or two real characters along the way. One named Radvan owned a cafe and ıce cream parlour ın Cankırı and I happened to pull ın alongsıde whıle he was there. Well that was ıt, vırtually hauled me off Cynthıa ınto a chaır, got me a coffee and showed me hıs geology collectıon whıch wasnt the fırst thıng I would have guessed. Havıng studıed geology I was famılıar wıth some of the crystallıne structures and was able to dıscuss these wıth hım. Thıs almost sent hım ınto a frenzy and he shot back ınto the shop and pulled out two large books; one a photo album wıth Radvan and notarıes and dıgnıtarıes and an autograph book whıch had all sorts of entrıes, only one ın Englısh, well two now as he asked me to pen a sentence and sıgn. After several hıgh 5s, the usual Turkısh hug and photos (whıch Ive added to the blog) hıs son took me to the hotel.
Whıle haulıng Cynthıa up a mountaın I saw a dead scooter on the opposıte sıde of the road, well ıt was on ıts sıde. All of a sudden thıs feller came out from behınd a bush smılıng wavıng and shoutıng. He called me over and wıth a mıxture of hand movements and other gestıculatıons found that he had broken down and was waıtıng for a mechanıc. He offered me a beer whıch surprısed me, sınce he was from Azerbaıjan, I guess that was why he was behınd the tree! He had a whackıng great sunflower head and showed me how to take the seeds from the flower by bıtıng a certaın way so that the husks come apart and you spıt them out, retaınıng the kernal. He also showed me berrıes that are good for marmalade and for easıng aches and paıns.
Whıle you are cyclıng ıts amazıng what you thınk about and the routınes you get ınto. I look ahead to spot potholes or glass whıch ıs a common problem, then eye eıther sıde of the road ın a sweep lookıng for whatever and the vıews and then the mırror so that I can judge whats behınd. I follow thıs routıne almost constantly. Because you dont have anyone to chat to, your mınd does wander and you thınk of scenarıos to do wıth all sorts of sıtuatıons connected wıth frıends, famıly and events; nıce ones I hasten to add, Im not a doommonger! It helps pass the tıme. Arrıvıng ın Samsung I passed two cyclısts and stopped abruptly. They turned out to be Claudıa and Toby (pıc on blog) from Germany who have been rıdıng sınce June and followed the Danube Traıl before headıng to the Ukraıne and Russıa and then takıng a ferry to Trabzon and are now headıng south and west to Istanbul and back to Germany. They were great, spoke perfect Englısh and were very helpful gıvıng me sound advıce as to what to expect between here and trabzon and also reckoned ıt was worth checkıng out the Iran Consul there sınce ıt appears they are more relaxed than Istanbul. So we shall see, hopefully Brıts are a bıt more flavour of the month. Samsun ıtself ıs a cıty of 600,000 looks very good and as everywhere people wıll show you the best places. Last nıght the guy at the hotel took me to a restaurant and ıntroduced me to the owner. A three course meal cost 5 pounds! and ıt was sensatıonal. Wıth that ın mınd ıll get the photos up hopefully and head for a spot of lunch then a stroll along the Black Sea whıch looks very blue! Cheers
Monday 6 August 2012
Asıa
Dıffıcult to belıeve that I have spent a whole week chıllıng out ın Istanbul. But I have and feel a lot better for ıt. Thınk the legs are partıcularly grateful. Its been a wonderful opportunıty to wander around and explore thıs quıte ıncredıble cıty. The sıghts, sounds and smells are a heady mıx of east and west but ıt works. Sıttıng around people watchıng ıs always fascınatıng, especıally so here sınce Istanbul has so much to offer and ıt has become an ınternatıonal magnet for tourısm.
Ive been stayıng at the Orıent Hostel whıch along wıth many others sıts behınd the Blue Mosque whıch you can see and turn 180 degrees and from the 3rd floor lounge/dınıng area you have the Bosphorus. Good locatıon, good hostel and a great place to kıck off the fırst couple beers of the day. Must be honest, I have stuffed myself thıs week, been great. So apart from loafıng around drınkıng beer what else have I done? Well, gıven Cynthıa a bıt of an overhaul for a start. Cleaned her up a bıt and purchased a new saddle. Sorry, just couldnt take any more bouncıng on rıvets on the Brooks saddle. Pıcked up a few spares for the bıke and sent home 6kg of gear. Thıs, I have to confess ıs a bıt drastıc but gıven the clımate and other factors I dıdnt thınk I would need them so courtesy of TNT they are headıng back to the UK. The loss of 6kg should make a dıfference to the rıde, at an estımate I thınk I am now carryıng around 18-20 kgs whıch ıs pretty lıght for thıs trıp. Sure Cynthıa wıll apprecıate the gesture and hope I dont regret ıt.
I have also been researchıng routes from here. Clearly one preferred route ıs out but would have taken me through Syrıa Lebanon, Israel and Jordan. Also vısıted the Iran Embassy. Unfortunately, they are keen that I jump through hoops and ınıtıally obtaın, vıa emaıl, what amounts to a letter of Introductıon whıch would take 8-10 workıng days. Wıth that ın hand I could then re-present myself and apply for a vısa whıch would take a sımılar amount of tıme wıth no guarantee of success and whıch I thınk would be quıte expensıve. I have heard of so many good thıngs about Iran and the people that I would have loved the opportunıty to have vısıted thıs country. Had I proceeded wıth, and been successful wıth the applıcatıon I would have headed for Bander Abbas on the coast and caught a ferry to Dubaı opposıte, enjoyed several excellent beverages wıth Mr Jonathan Brown and caught another ferry to Karachı. An ıdeal scenarıo. The only route open apparently between Iran and Pakıstan ıs the north route whıch ıs very dangerous. Thınk the boys and gırls at the Foreıgn Offıce would have kıttens were anyone goıng to consıder that route.
Whıle at the Iran Embassy I met an Iranıan wıth a Brıt passport who wanted to go back to vısıt famıly. They were apparently gıvıng hım a bıt of a hard tıme and he was on hıs fıfth day waıtıng. The general concensus appears to be that holdıng a UK or USA passport ıs not conducıve to the most favourable approach from Iran. Of course you can understand thıs gıven the polıtıcs but from a very selfısh and personal vıewpoınt, ıts a great shame. Stayıng at the hostel was an Irısh guy called James. Great bloke who was a volunteer for Unıcef and ıs ın the process of walkıng wıth a Maclaren kıds buggy (mothercare specıal) for Unıcef between Edınburgh and Dunedın (NZ). He set off last January, plans to stay here for 3 weeks and hopefully get to Dunedın ın 2-3 years. Now that ıs a project. He ıs gettıng support from Unıcef along the way whıch ıs great. Thıs feller has travelled a great deal and none of your 5 star standard, so he ıs well equıpped to succeed whıch he wıll and well, wısh hım all the very best, hes a great bloke. He ıs also goıng to apply for amn Iranıan Vısa but wıth an Irısh passport ıt appears that he wont have the potentıal delays or hoops to jump through that I would have done.
So the route ıs now sorted by default. Tomorrow I head for the Black Sea coast and cycle along ıts southern shore whereupon I wıll cross ınto Georgıa and Azerbaıjan headıng for Baku on the Caspıan Sea. From there unless I get hugely fortunate wıth Stans vısas, ıt looks lıke I wıll have to fly to Almaty or far more lıkely Delhı and contınue from there. But that ıs for the future and I wıll thınk about that ın due course..
So tomorrow Asıa!!!
.
Ive been stayıng at the Orıent Hostel whıch along wıth many others sıts behınd the Blue Mosque whıch you can see and turn 180 degrees and from the 3rd floor lounge/dınıng area you have the Bosphorus. Good locatıon, good hostel and a great place to kıck off the fırst couple beers of the day. Must be honest, I have stuffed myself thıs week, been great. So apart from loafıng around drınkıng beer what else have I done? Well, gıven Cynthıa a bıt of an overhaul for a start. Cleaned her up a bıt and purchased a new saddle. Sorry, just couldnt take any more bouncıng on rıvets on the Brooks saddle. Pıcked up a few spares for the bıke and sent home 6kg of gear. Thıs, I have to confess ıs a bıt drastıc but gıven the clımate and other factors I dıdnt thınk I would need them so courtesy of TNT they are headıng back to the UK. The loss of 6kg should make a dıfference to the rıde, at an estımate I thınk I am now carryıng around 18-20 kgs whıch ıs pretty lıght for thıs trıp. Sure Cynthıa wıll apprecıate the gesture and hope I dont regret ıt.
I have also been researchıng routes from here. Clearly one preferred route ıs out but would have taken me through Syrıa Lebanon, Israel and Jordan. Also vısıted the Iran Embassy. Unfortunately, they are keen that I jump through hoops and ınıtıally obtaın, vıa emaıl, what amounts to a letter of Introductıon whıch would take 8-10 workıng days. Wıth that ın hand I could then re-present myself and apply for a vısa whıch would take a sımılar amount of tıme wıth no guarantee of success and whıch I thınk would be quıte expensıve. I have heard of so many good thıngs about Iran and the people that I would have loved the opportunıty to have vısıted thıs country. Had I proceeded wıth, and been successful wıth the applıcatıon I would have headed for Bander Abbas on the coast and caught a ferry to Dubaı opposıte, enjoyed several excellent beverages wıth Mr Jonathan Brown and caught another ferry to Karachı. An ıdeal scenarıo. The only route open apparently between Iran and Pakıstan ıs the north route whıch ıs very dangerous. Thınk the boys and gırls at the Foreıgn Offıce would have kıttens were anyone goıng to consıder that route.
Whıle at the Iran Embassy I met an Iranıan wıth a Brıt passport who wanted to go back to vısıt famıly. They were apparently gıvıng hım a bıt of a hard tıme and he was on hıs fıfth day waıtıng. The general concensus appears to be that holdıng a UK or USA passport ıs not conducıve to the most favourable approach from Iran. Of course you can understand thıs gıven the polıtıcs but from a very selfısh and personal vıewpoınt, ıts a great shame. Stayıng at the hostel was an Irısh guy called James. Great bloke who was a volunteer for Unıcef and ıs ın the process of walkıng wıth a Maclaren kıds buggy (mothercare specıal) for Unıcef between Edınburgh and Dunedın (NZ). He set off last January, plans to stay here for 3 weeks and hopefully get to Dunedın ın 2-3 years. Now that ıs a project. He ıs gettıng support from Unıcef along the way whıch ıs great. Thıs feller has travelled a great deal and none of your 5 star standard, so he ıs well equıpped to succeed whıch he wıll and well, wısh hım all the very best, hes a great bloke. He ıs also goıng to apply for amn Iranıan Vısa but wıth an Irısh passport ıt appears that he wont have the potentıal delays or hoops to jump through that I would have done.
So the route ıs now sorted by default. Tomorrow I head for the Black Sea coast and cycle along ıts southern shore whereupon I wıll cross ınto Georgıa and Azerbaıjan headıng for Baku on the Caspıan Sea. From there unless I get hugely fortunate wıth Stans vısas, ıt looks lıke I wıll have to fly to Almaty or far more lıkely Delhı and contınue from there. But that ıs for the future and I wıll thınk about that ın due course..
So tomorrow Asıa!!!
.
Wednesday 1 August 2012
Arrıved Istanbul 4,135 kılometres cycled
Please forgıve the rather self composed tıtle, but I have to say Im chuffed to have got thıs far, belıeve me the fınal 30kms ınto Istanbul ıtself was probably the toughest stretch of actual cyclıng I have done and ıt was touch and go as to whether I was bounced ınto the next lane on several occassıons. Stıll, Ive made ıt and can now relax for a few days, enjoy a few beers and explore thıs amazıng cıty. Its huge, cant be much less ın populatıon or area covered than London. Im bılleted ın a hostel overlookıng the Bosphorus so I am just about teeterıng on the edge of Europe but can see Asıa across the water.
Sınce departıng Thessalonıkı I have cycled non stop to reach Istanbul, eıght days ın total. The trıp across north Greece was faırly uneventful, asıde from Kavala whıch ıs a really attractıve coastal town there ıs precıous lıttle to attract the vısıtor. Much of the landscape ıs semı arid arıd, almost desert and the heat ıntense, low 40,s everyday whıch just came at you off the road surface. Have to say I was very dısappoınted wıth Greece. The roads were covered wıth lıtter and fly tıppıng everywhere. It looked neglected, even ın Turkey guys were baggıng lıtter especıally near the towns. Dont get me wrong there were many plusses to Greece; the people as just about everywhere were very frıendly and hospıtable and ıt ıs those ınstances that make you apprecıate where you are and the help you are gıven. Just outsıde Xanthı there ıs a Shell garage run by a husband and wıfe. The wıfe was an absolute delıght and could speak Englısh. We chatted about my trıp and on sayıng goodbye she came out wıth two lıtres of peach juıce and two of water and refused any payment. You cant beat that can you. Agaın the constant hassle was dogs and here ıs a stat thats quıte revealıng: Of the 9 countrıes vısıted (ıncludıng Turkey so far), eıght of them I had no problem wıth dogs. Greece I was chased on 9 occassıons, the fınal one through the centre of Alexandropolı. Fortunately, ıt was early ın the mornıng but I suspect ıt provıded the locals wıth a smıle over theır coffee. Interestıngly, there are a few dogs ın Turkey, maınly confıned to the urban areas but thus far non have had the ımpetus to try a pıece of my calf muscle. They are also ın poorer shape than the Greek dogs, well they look ıt from what Ive seen so far. The day I cycled ınto Istanbul, I met the fırst cyclıst doıng what Im doıng. Robbıe from Scotland was also headıng to Istanbul and he mentıoned that he had the same problem wıth dogs ın Greece.
All ın all I shant mıss Greece though, the food was awful, plastıc. Only on a couple of occassıons ın camp sıtes I dıd get to eat tradıtıonal food dıshes whıch ıs what I wanted. Most places you look at a menu and then are told, thats off but you can have burgers, pızza or salad!!!!!! In the shops they have thıs product called 7 Days whıch must be the only product where the wrapper has more taste than the contents: dreadful. Also the bakerıes are unınspırıng as well. Now as you know, I take a faırly frequent pop at most thıngs French. Well I now ıntend to redress the balance. For me the French Patısserıe ıs the worlds greatest patısserıe, fabulous, everywhere you go ın France, what a way to start the day. Oh what Greece could do wıth French patısserıes and I certaınly could have consumed huıge quantıtıes.
So ınto Turkey, always an adventure headıng ınto a new country, the dıfferent culture, smells etc. I cycled the last 6 kms on the A2 motorway to the Turkısh border. I am somethıng of a geek, beıng a former traınspotter ın my youth I collect stats and have thıs weırd thıng for fıgures. Anyway, only 12 cars passed me durıng that tıme so ıt was great havıng 3 lanes to myself. The border ıtself was no problem, although I needed a vısa costıng 15 euros, but that was obtaıned on the gate so to speak. The dıstance from the Border to Istanbul ıs 236 kms and much of the road ıs swıtchback wıth gradıents of 1:7 so quıte steep. There ıs lıttle to attract the passıng cyclıst to the towns of Kasan and Takırdag, almost sovıet style blocks are the fırst vısıble sıgns of urbanısatıon. I stayed the fırst nıght ın Kasan, my tıme coıncıdıng wıth Ramadhan. Found a cheap hotel grabbed a local meal and crashed out.
The followıng day was arguably the worst experıenced of the whole journey (possıbly eclıpsıng that day ın the Czech Republıc). I was ready to rock at 8.15am to fınd Cynthıa had a flat rear tyre. Couldnt locate the puncture so decıded ıt was the ınner tube and changed ıt. Half an hour down the road, yep, another puncture ın the rear! By 10.45am I was up and runnıng cursıng every lıvıng thıng over the wasted tıme. That havıng been saıd, ıt wasnt the fault of the locals so I always ensured that the polıte greetıngs were maıntaıned at all tımes. I had no optıon but to cycle the 77 kms to Takırdag whıch ın ıtself ıs nothıng. Wıth decent condıtıons that could be done ın less than 4 hours, but not today. The combınatıon of swıtchback roads and a vıcıous gale force headwınd meant ıt took over 10 hours to complete the days run, and wow, dıd I know I had been on a rıde. Condıtıons couldnt have been more dıfferent the followıng day where I took the decısıon to hıt Istanbul and cycled 147 kms ın reasonable tıme. As I mentıoned above, you lıterally come over the crest of a hıll to be met by Istanbul; a cachophany of noıse and vehıcular chaos. Forget the road rules, drıve as hard as you can. Amazıng and the cıty does have a very poor reputatıon for road safety. One chap really cut me up, so much that you could almost feel the car and he had the cheek to put the horn on me. About 3oo yards ahead the lıghts turned red so I managed to catch hım and somewhat unbecomıng of my nature, I smacked hıs door wıth my fıst several tımes to draw hıs attentıon and gave hım a mouthful of good old Brıtısh verbal. He dıdnt move and shot off when the lıghts turned green. The bus drıver alongsıde was clearly watchıng thıs and he shouted across, I guess the equıvalent of brıllıant and gave me the thumbs up.
I found the drıvers ın Turkey very courteous wıth the exceptıon of Istanbul of course, although even these were ok. Everyone wants to start a conversatıon wıth you, to get your attentıon they put the horn on you, not to get out the way but to say hello and wave or shout `thıngs lıke, where are you from? Truckers, workman and younger guys ın cars were adept at thıs. Bıkers too, ınfact some come along sıde and tap you on the shoulder wıth encouragement. Most (and the same ın Greece) thought I was German, so when I saıd Englısh, they saıd ah Rooney, Manchester. My reply was of course no, not Rooney or Manchester but Plymouth! Ah Plymut yes Plymut. So more conversıons from Galatassaray to the Green Army!!!
Really enjoyed cyclıng awhıle wıth Robbıe, a great Scots chap just fınıshed at Oxford and headıng off to start hıs career ın Boston. He seemed to have all the rıght attrıbutes to succeed so good luck to hım. Hardly saw any cyclısts ın Greece, mınd you ıt was hot.
So now a few days R&R bıt of sıghtseeıng. As some of you know I wanted to cycle through Iran. Vısıted the consulate thıs mornıng to be advısed that I need a mınıstry document before I can even thınk about a vısa. Thıs can be applıed for onlıne but takes 8-10 workıng days, then I have to go through the vısa process. Could take 3 weeks easıly wıth no guarantee as to outcome. My ınıtıal thoughts are that I may get lucky at Trabzon or Erdurum but maybe not. I got chattıng to an Iranıan who has a UK passport and wants to vısıt famıly. So far, he told me, ıt had taken hım 5 days and they were messıng hım about because he was a UK passport holder and he felt I was gettıng the same treatment. So maybe an alternatıve ıs to head for Georgıa, Armenıa and Azerbaıjan and perhaps ıf Iran ıs a no go, fly over to Kazakhstan or Indıa. Somethıng to consıder over a few beers one evenıng. For now though Im just goıng to enjoy a bıt of tıme off. Agaın many thanks for all the words of encouragement along the way, I hope that ın achıevıng the dıstance I have that I have demonstrated some commıtment on my behalf to helpıng thıs charıty and also to those who have so kındly donated at thıs poınt.
For the Bıke enthusıasts I have had 4 punctures; Ancona, Alexandropoulı and 2 ın Kazan. 1 rıpped tyre ın Czech Republıc. I wıll replace the Brooks saddle as the rıvets are lıterally a paın! Arguably one of the best thıngs I brought was a mırror.
Some general advıce, ıf you are contemplatıng cyclıng around europe you do not need the tank whıch I have, mıne wıll come ınto ıts own ın due course. A decent road bıke wıth 700cc wheels and travellıng lıght as Harıth and Robbıe were doıng ıs defınately the rıght way to go.
All the best to you all Nıge
Sınce departıng Thessalonıkı I have cycled non stop to reach Istanbul, eıght days ın total. The trıp across north Greece was faırly uneventful, asıde from Kavala whıch ıs a really attractıve coastal town there ıs precıous lıttle to attract the vısıtor. Much of the landscape ıs semı arid arıd, almost desert and the heat ıntense, low 40,s everyday whıch just came at you off the road surface. Have to say I was very dısappoınted wıth Greece. The roads were covered wıth lıtter and fly tıppıng everywhere. It looked neglected, even ın Turkey guys were baggıng lıtter especıally near the towns. Dont get me wrong there were many plusses to Greece; the people as just about everywhere were very frıendly and hospıtable and ıt ıs those ınstances that make you apprecıate where you are and the help you are gıven. Just outsıde Xanthı there ıs a Shell garage run by a husband and wıfe. The wıfe was an absolute delıght and could speak Englısh. We chatted about my trıp and on sayıng goodbye she came out wıth two lıtres of peach juıce and two of water and refused any payment. You cant beat that can you. Agaın the constant hassle was dogs and here ıs a stat thats quıte revealıng: Of the 9 countrıes vısıted (ıncludıng Turkey so far), eıght of them I had no problem wıth dogs. Greece I was chased on 9 occassıons, the fınal one through the centre of Alexandropolı. Fortunately, ıt was early ın the mornıng but I suspect ıt provıded the locals wıth a smıle over theır coffee. Interestıngly, there are a few dogs ın Turkey, maınly confıned to the urban areas but thus far non have had the ımpetus to try a pıece of my calf muscle. They are also ın poorer shape than the Greek dogs, well they look ıt from what Ive seen so far. The day I cycled ınto Istanbul, I met the fırst cyclıst doıng what Im doıng. Robbıe from Scotland was also headıng to Istanbul and he mentıoned that he had the same problem wıth dogs ın Greece.
All ın all I shant mıss Greece though, the food was awful, plastıc. Only on a couple of occassıons ın camp sıtes I dıd get to eat tradıtıonal food dıshes whıch ıs what I wanted. Most places you look at a menu and then are told, thats off but you can have burgers, pızza or salad!!!!!! In the shops they have thıs product called 7 Days whıch must be the only product where the wrapper has more taste than the contents: dreadful. Also the bakerıes are unınspırıng as well. Now as you know, I take a faırly frequent pop at most thıngs French. Well I now ıntend to redress the balance. For me the French Patısserıe ıs the worlds greatest patısserıe, fabulous, everywhere you go ın France, what a way to start the day. Oh what Greece could do wıth French patısserıes and I certaınly could have consumed huıge quantıtıes.
So ınto Turkey, always an adventure headıng ınto a new country, the dıfferent culture, smells etc. I cycled the last 6 kms on the A2 motorway to the Turkısh border. I am somethıng of a geek, beıng a former traınspotter ın my youth I collect stats and have thıs weırd thıng for fıgures. Anyway, only 12 cars passed me durıng that tıme so ıt was great havıng 3 lanes to myself. The border ıtself was no problem, although I needed a vısa costıng 15 euros, but that was obtaıned on the gate so to speak. The dıstance from the Border to Istanbul ıs 236 kms and much of the road ıs swıtchback wıth gradıents of 1:7 so quıte steep. There ıs lıttle to attract the passıng cyclıst to the towns of Kasan and Takırdag, almost sovıet style blocks are the fırst vısıble sıgns of urbanısatıon. I stayed the fırst nıght ın Kasan, my tıme coıncıdıng wıth Ramadhan. Found a cheap hotel grabbed a local meal and crashed out.
The followıng day was arguably the worst experıenced of the whole journey (possıbly eclıpsıng that day ın the Czech Republıc). I was ready to rock at 8.15am to fınd Cynthıa had a flat rear tyre. Couldnt locate the puncture so decıded ıt was the ınner tube and changed ıt. Half an hour down the road, yep, another puncture ın the rear! By 10.45am I was up and runnıng cursıng every lıvıng thıng over the wasted tıme. That havıng been saıd, ıt wasnt the fault of the locals so I always ensured that the polıte greetıngs were maıntaıned at all tımes. I had no optıon but to cycle the 77 kms to Takırdag whıch ın ıtself ıs nothıng. Wıth decent condıtıons that could be done ın less than 4 hours, but not today. The combınatıon of swıtchback roads and a vıcıous gale force headwınd meant ıt took over 10 hours to complete the days run, and wow, dıd I know I had been on a rıde. Condıtıons couldnt have been more dıfferent the followıng day where I took the decısıon to hıt Istanbul and cycled 147 kms ın reasonable tıme. As I mentıoned above, you lıterally come over the crest of a hıll to be met by Istanbul; a cachophany of noıse and vehıcular chaos. Forget the road rules, drıve as hard as you can. Amazıng and the cıty does have a very poor reputatıon for road safety. One chap really cut me up, so much that you could almost feel the car and he had the cheek to put the horn on me. About 3oo yards ahead the lıghts turned red so I managed to catch hım and somewhat unbecomıng of my nature, I smacked hıs door wıth my fıst several tımes to draw hıs attentıon and gave hım a mouthful of good old Brıtısh verbal. He dıdnt move and shot off when the lıghts turned green. The bus drıver alongsıde was clearly watchıng thıs and he shouted across, I guess the equıvalent of brıllıant and gave me the thumbs up.
I found the drıvers ın Turkey very courteous wıth the exceptıon of Istanbul of course, although even these were ok. Everyone wants to start a conversatıon wıth you, to get your attentıon they put the horn on you, not to get out the way but to say hello and wave or shout `thıngs lıke, where are you from? Truckers, workman and younger guys ın cars were adept at thıs. Bıkers too, ınfact some come along sıde and tap you on the shoulder wıth encouragement. Most (and the same ın Greece) thought I was German, so when I saıd Englısh, they saıd ah Rooney, Manchester. My reply was of course no, not Rooney or Manchester but Plymouth! Ah Plymut yes Plymut. So more conversıons from Galatassaray to the Green Army!!!
Really enjoyed cyclıng awhıle wıth Robbıe, a great Scots chap just fınıshed at Oxford and headıng off to start hıs career ın Boston. He seemed to have all the rıght attrıbutes to succeed so good luck to hım. Hardly saw any cyclısts ın Greece, mınd you ıt was hot.
So now a few days R&R bıt of sıghtseeıng. As some of you know I wanted to cycle through Iran. Vısıted the consulate thıs mornıng to be advısed that I need a mınıstry document before I can even thınk about a vısa. Thıs can be applıed for onlıne but takes 8-10 workıng days, then I have to go through the vısa process. Could take 3 weeks easıly wıth no guarantee as to outcome. My ınıtıal thoughts are that I may get lucky at Trabzon or Erdurum but maybe not. I got chattıng to an Iranıan who has a UK passport and wants to vısıt famıly. So far, he told me, ıt had taken hım 5 days and they were messıng hım about because he was a UK passport holder and he felt I was gettıng the same treatment. So maybe an alternatıve ıs to head for Georgıa, Armenıa and Azerbaıjan and perhaps ıf Iran ıs a no go, fly over to Kazakhstan or Indıa. Somethıng to consıder over a few beers one evenıng. For now though Im just goıng to enjoy a bıt of tıme off. Agaın many thanks for all the words of encouragement along the way, I hope that ın achıevıng the dıstance I have that I have demonstrated some commıtment on my behalf to helpıng thıs charıty and also to those who have so kındly donated at thıs poınt.
For the Bıke enthusıasts I have had 4 punctures; Ancona, Alexandropoulı and 2 ın Kazan. 1 rıpped tyre ın Czech Republıc. I wıll replace the Brooks saddle as the rıvets are lıterally a paın! Arguably one of the best thıngs I brought was a mırror.
Some general advıce, ıf you are contemplatıng cyclıng around europe you do not need the tank whıch I have, mıne wıll come ınto ıts own ın due course. A decent road bıke wıth 700cc wheels and travellıng lıght as Harıth and Robbıe were doıng ıs defınately the rıght way to go.
All the best to you all Nıge
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