Having left Mui Ne I have now moved up a couple of inches up the map to Nha Trang. I had hoped to arrive here yesterday, not that it matters that much, but I have had to negotiate a strong headwind all the way which reduced my progress considerably. At its worst I was struggling to make 6kms per hour for a lot of legwork. No matter, since this was a really good leg otherwise. Leaving Mui Ne the land is almost semi arid with dunes extending some way inland and cacti growing. Bougonvilia (I know its the wrong spelling, but the spell check keeps coming up with Yugoslavia!) grows along the roadside and there is a shrub or tree which gives off a scent that reminds me of Provance. Even the light is like the South of France. Gradually the land becomes more fertile and you cycle through paddy fields with palm groves in the distance and mountains beyond. Its quite beautiful. Along the route there are glimpses of the coast and of course the numerous villages and towns along 1A which is the main route to Hanoi.
A day out and I met two French fellers cycling towards Mui Ne. Really decent blokes who told me that they were spending 8 months cycling around South East Asia, having arrived in Hanoi, brought two bikes and set off. They did take a bus for the mid section of the route as they have a timescale to be in the south. The following day, two more cyclists, again heading south; its like rush hour!!!! Laura and Brant were from the USA and from their home in California (Big Sur) which is a terrific location, they cycled across the States to New York, a journey they completed in 6 weeks and is what most Americans consider to be a right of passage. They kindly gave me the heads up on an alternative route into Nha Trang. This route kicks in about 30 kms from the city and is effectively a dual carriageway, brand new, with hardly any traffic but the most superb sea views which was great to cycle this morning. To anyone contemplating cycling north, this is a gem of a route into Nha Trang. Brant is a very keen cyclist and both had custom made bikes for the trip. He was well versed with Thorn and took pictures of Cynth. We both had Schwalbe Marathon XR's tyres which are no longer made, probably because they are so good. Brant bought his set second hand and hardly any wear. Come on Schwalbe, get manufacturing these tyres again, your replacements arn't a touch on the XR's.
Its always good to meet cyclists on the road, swap stories and discuss your bikes; those four were the first cyclists I have met I think since Turkey, but the South East Asian market is growing in popularity as a cycling destination, so if any of you guys I met cycling along the Danube are reading this, then believe me if it's a possibility, then go for it. The two French fellers brought their bikes for $250 each and both said they were great for what they wanted.
Life along the road continues to be interesting and fun. Truck drivers, shop keepers, road workers and blokes sitting around in the numerous cafes continue to chaik, shout and wave. Pull into a cafe and they all gather round while you explain what you would like to drink; the women are great, always smiling, chatting and are very tactile.I found this in Mui Ne, while all the testosterone fuelled 20 somethings were demonstrating their physical aplomb either by exercising on the beach or kike surfing; I just chatted to the girls with very positive results. There are loads of cafes, not sure how any of them make a profit. I generally like to get an hour or two under my belt before a pit stop, and the day I left Mui Ne I did just that and pulled into a cafe where 6 blokes were consuming Tiger lager at an alarming rate, well for 8am it appeared that way. They insisted I sit with them and would not think of me leaving until I had drunk 3 cans of lager with them; so I did. They were also ripping a crab apart so again insisted I help them demolish that as well. The thing about cycling is that you don't know whats going to happen next. It's a gimme here that quite a few scooter riders will come alongside and slap you on the back by way of encouragement; this can be a bit dicey if your not expecting it. Also the kids love hi 5's while you are in motion and hold their arms out. Lads also like to race me and overtake before heading off a sidestreet then look at me and laugh as they head away. And yes I do let them win. On one occasion I stopped next to a collection and distribution plant where dragon fruit was the product in question. Dragon Fruit is a mainly pink coloured circular fruit with pink 'fingers' coming off. Hence the name I guess. The inside contains a white coloured fruit with black seeds, very good to eat. The owners daughter was called Anne who could speak very good English; having met her mother and co-workers Anne then gave me 4 of these fruit to take with me; about 2 kilos in weight. This just demonstrates how generous these people are.
Hotels are plentiful and cheap, rarely away from cities do you pay more that $10 for a room which is a double with shower and a/c. I stayed at one on the second night where my room cantilevered over the ocean on both sides. So at night you could listen to the swell and watch the fishing boats' wonderful. I usually eat street food or local restaurants. For breakfast, stop off at roadside where you get a warm bagette, two fried eggs, sausage meat, veg and spicey sauce for 50 cents!!! Thats about 30p and its usually very good. In the evening its pot luck, but again select something usually with noodles or rice, with water buffalo as the meat, and of course seafood and fish of all descriptions. The girls often bring me crayfish or something else off the menu with a sauce and sit with me showing how to extract the meat. Of course, its quite usual to spend the odd night, or part of it, on the loo so the following day you feel a bit under the weather and not really looking forward to getting on the bike. On days like that I think about why I'm doing this; for kids with cancer. Bet they would swap their situation for mine at an instant; so I get myself into gear, give myself a verbal lashing and kick up the backside and start pedalling.
They make coffee with condensed milk over here. Its very good, not that I need any incentive to demolish a can of that. Mum and I would sit down with a can of condensed milk and two spoons and go through it like a dose of salts.
Of course spending so much time in the saddle, the old tackle gets a bit sore. I have tried a variation of clothing and even resorted to a condom to provide a bit of relief but all to little avail. So now I find the best is to flip the tackle occasionally from one side to the other. Its ok. Now I have a mate called John Stamp who I think usually reads these at breakfast while getting his laughing gear around a large danish. His reposte (and he has one for most occasions) would be 'Bloody hell Trevelyan, half an inch less and you'd be a stewardess!'John and I go back more than 40 years, I think Wichita Lineman was charting so must have been around '69. He likes nothing better at a dinner party to regale what I looked like and my musical taste at the time. So a description of me with shoulder length Beatle haircut with bright shirt, flares and hipsters grooving to T.Rex, Mungo Jerry and Cream is portrayed to the dining guests; fortunately there are no photos. Janet, his wife is amazing; how she puts up with him I don't know, she is a superb, cook and hostess and when I needed help both of them were right there no questions asked. Its something I am appreciative of even now. Great mates.
Well I see by the date on my watch that Christmas is rapidly approaching. Not that it feels like it here, or you would really know it. I'm surprised that shops are selling xmas trees and tinsel. So to get into the festive spirit I bought some tinsel and decorated Cynth; photos on the side. Looks a real picture eh! Not sure where I will be on the day; because of the headwind I cant see me making it to Ha Long Bay or even close. It doesn't matter because the weather up there isnt that great at the moment. Hanoi is only 20 degrees positively shivering!
I know at this time of year you all get bombarded with begging letters from charities. I'm also aware that everyone is tightening the belt with such an uncertain future ahead. However, if I could simply ask that for anyone with a few bob to spare feel so inclined to lob it in the direction of Children with Cancer UK it would absolutely make my xmas. I hope to blog again before xmas, but in the event I don't may I wish everyone a very happy and peaceful xmas.
A day out and I met two French fellers cycling towards Mui Ne. Really decent blokes who told me that they were spending 8 months cycling around South East Asia, having arrived in Hanoi, brought two bikes and set off. They did take a bus for the mid section of the route as they have a timescale to be in the south. The following day, two more cyclists, again heading south; its like rush hour!!!! Laura and Brant were from the USA and from their home in California (Big Sur) which is a terrific location, they cycled across the States to New York, a journey they completed in 6 weeks and is what most Americans consider to be a right of passage. They kindly gave me the heads up on an alternative route into Nha Trang. This route kicks in about 30 kms from the city and is effectively a dual carriageway, brand new, with hardly any traffic but the most superb sea views which was great to cycle this morning. To anyone contemplating cycling north, this is a gem of a route into Nha Trang. Brant is a very keen cyclist and both had custom made bikes for the trip. He was well versed with Thorn and took pictures of Cynth. We both had Schwalbe Marathon XR's tyres which are no longer made, probably because they are so good. Brant bought his set second hand and hardly any wear. Come on Schwalbe, get manufacturing these tyres again, your replacements arn't a touch on the XR's.
Its always good to meet cyclists on the road, swap stories and discuss your bikes; those four were the first cyclists I have met I think since Turkey, but the South East Asian market is growing in popularity as a cycling destination, so if any of you guys I met cycling along the Danube are reading this, then believe me if it's a possibility, then go for it. The two French fellers brought their bikes for $250 each and both said they were great for what they wanted.
Life along the road continues to be interesting and fun. Truck drivers, shop keepers, road workers and blokes sitting around in the numerous cafes continue to chaik, shout and wave. Pull into a cafe and they all gather round while you explain what you would like to drink; the women are great, always smiling, chatting and are very tactile.I found this in Mui Ne, while all the testosterone fuelled 20 somethings were demonstrating their physical aplomb either by exercising on the beach or kike surfing; I just chatted to the girls with very positive results. There are loads of cafes, not sure how any of them make a profit. I generally like to get an hour or two under my belt before a pit stop, and the day I left Mui Ne I did just that and pulled into a cafe where 6 blokes were consuming Tiger lager at an alarming rate, well for 8am it appeared that way. They insisted I sit with them and would not think of me leaving until I had drunk 3 cans of lager with them; so I did. They were also ripping a crab apart so again insisted I help them demolish that as well. The thing about cycling is that you don't know whats going to happen next. It's a gimme here that quite a few scooter riders will come alongside and slap you on the back by way of encouragement; this can be a bit dicey if your not expecting it. Also the kids love hi 5's while you are in motion and hold their arms out. Lads also like to race me and overtake before heading off a sidestreet then look at me and laugh as they head away. And yes I do let them win. On one occasion I stopped next to a collection and distribution plant where dragon fruit was the product in question. Dragon Fruit is a mainly pink coloured circular fruit with pink 'fingers' coming off. Hence the name I guess. The inside contains a white coloured fruit with black seeds, very good to eat. The owners daughter was called Anne who could speak very good English; having met her mother and co-workers Anne then gave me 4 of these fruit to take with me; about 2 kilos in weight. This just demonstrates how generous these people are.
Hotels are plentiful and cheap, rarely away from cities do you pay more that $10 for a room which is a double with shower and a/c. I stayed at one on the second night where my room cantilevered over the ocean on both sides. So at night you could listen to the swell and watch the fishing boats' wonderful. I usually eat street food or local restaurants. For breakfast, stop off at roadside where you get a warm bagette, two fried eggs, sausage meat, veg and spicey sauce for 50 cents!!! Thats about 30p and its usually very good. In the evening its pot luck, but again select something usually with noodles or rice, with water buffalo as the meat, and of course seafood and fish of all descriptions. The girls often bring me crayfish or something else off the menu with a sauce and sit with me showing how to extract the meat. Of course, its quite usual to spend the odd night, or part of it, on the loo so the following day you feel a bit under the weather and not really looking forward to getting on the bike. On days like that I think about why I'm doing this; for kids with cancer. Bet they would swap their situation for mine at an instant; so I get myself into gear, give myself a verbal lashing and kick up the backside and start pedalling.
They make coffee with condensed milk over here. Its very good, not that I need any incentive to demolish a can of that. Mum and I would sit down with a can of condensed milk and two spoons and go through it like a dose of salts.
Of course spending so much time in the saddle, the old tackle gets a bit sore. I have tried a variation of clothing and even resorted to a condom to provide a bit of relief but all to little avail. So now I find the best is to flip the tackle occasionally from one side to the other. Its ok. Now I have a mate called John Stamp who I think usually reads these at breakfast while getting his laughing gear around a large danish. His reposte (and he has one for most occasions) would be 'Bloody hell Trevelyan, half an inch less and you'd be a stewardess!'John and I go back more than 40 years, I think Wichita Lineman was charting so must have been around '69. He likes nothing better at a dinner party to regale what I looked like and my musical taste at the time. So a description of me with shoulder length Beatle haircut with bright shirt, flares and hipsters grooving to T.Rex, Mungo Jerry and Cream is portrayed to the dining guests; fortunately there are no photos. Janet, his wife is amazing; how she puts up with him I don't know, she is a superb, cook and hostess and when I needed help both of them were right there no questions asked. Its something I am appreciative of even now. Great mates.
Well I see by the date on my watch that Christmas is rapidly approaching. Not that it feels like it here, or you would really know it. I'm surprised that shops are selling xmas trees and tinsel. So to get into the festive spirit I bought some tinsel and decorated Cynth; photos on the side. Looks a real picture eh! Not sure where I will be on the day; because of the headwind I cant see me making it to Ha Long Bay or even close. It doesn't matter because the weather up there isnt that great at the moment. Hanoi is only 20 degrees positively shivering!
I know at this time of year you all get bombarded with begging letters from charities. I'm also aware that everyone is tightening the belt with such an uncertain future ahead. However, if I could simply ask that for anyone with a few bob to spare feel so inclined to lob it in the direction of Children with Cancer UK it would absolutely make my xmas. I hope to blog again before xmas, but in the event I don't may I wish everyone a very happy and peaceful xmas.
