First of all, it was terrific to catch up with Steve and enjoy a few beers in Tbilisi, just sorry I missed James who was coming out two days after I left.
The flight to Dubai was absolutely fine and at this point I should like to praise Qatar who were so helpful and went out of there way to assist with the bike. I checked in early and the representative was only to happy to take all my gear and weigh it, indicating that it should be ok. Unfortunately two panniers were not weighed, so when I checked in I was considerably over the limit, well Cynth weighs in at 18kgs which doesn't leave much for me! After a very brief discussion they waived me through; no penalty incurred as the flight wasn't full (about 90% full). Of course the garden was rosie as I didn't have to pay any excess, but seeing the charity T shirt I was wearing they were simply great. Wow, I fully understand and appreciate that it is not possible for every passenger to check in well over the limit; but where flights are not full and distance and fuel consumption permits, it is a real plus when airlines adopt a common sense and helpful stance. So thank you Qatar, a terrific airline, your customer service, even if I had had to pay, was still excellent.
I have now been in Dubai a week, staying with my ex-boss Jonathan, his wife Carol and their three children who are simply sensational. I cannot thank them enough for their hospitality, I mean life is tough enough with a young family so their kindness is so much appreciated. It has been over 3 years since I was last here and in Abu Dhabi (which I also visited). Although by Middle East standards and UAE standards, growth has been modest, there are definate 'green shoots'. Projects are progressing; the metro in Dubai is open; buildings in progress are being 'topped off', the Palm continues to be developed; there being several hotels under construction; while in Abu Dhabi, Reem Island is undergoing rapid transformation with the construction of the Gate; the new road from Yas and the airport is open while major residential developments have also progressed. So its not all doom and gloom and while things are still relatively quiet for this part of the world; there is sufficient to suggest that investors will still see this country as a place to do business. I'm not a political animal, but it seems to me that the UK could certainly adopt a stance of investing strongly in capital projects and infrastructure as the UAE has done. I appreciate the debt ratios are probably not comparable, but the concept of investment and development is not a bad one. For my two pennyworth, and its easy for me to say as I live in Devon; but the logic of considering an alternative to an additional third runway at Heathrow defies me. Here (UAE) and in China they just do it, and the Government should stop prevaricating and just get on with it. Wherever its built, there will be opposition.
I have been fortunate in so far as the processing of the Indian visa could have taken twice as long, and one thing I have always been concerned with is not to burden Carol and Jonathan with an extra body! It has been a delight to see them again and the kids for the first time. They have made me so welcome so a huge thank you to them for all they have done.
Its been almost 40 years since I last stepped foot in India. At that time the visit culminated what was the end of a two year travelfest, where I hitch hiked from Durban through Africa, to the Med, then across Turkey, Iran (you could get in then, just walk across the border-how times change), Afghanistan (which as with Iran, was a fascinating country to visit), Pakistan via the Khyber Pass, and then into India. At that time I travelled around Jammu and Kashmir (which was a bit lively!), visiting Srinigar, Lake Dal, then by train, back to Jammu and Delhi. During this period, and I guess because I was a bit run down, I caught pretty much everything India had to offer and was below par, to the extent that I didn't visit Agra, Jaipur or any of the other places one would want to visit in this amazing country. So returning now, full of beans and ready to do battle with the road conditions, I cannot wait to arrive in Delhi and kick start the journey again. There are of course many places I want to visit, and I havent set myself a time limit, but want to savour this country. I will end up in Calcutta and I hope to visit Darjeeling, oh there are so many places I want to go. While I have enjoyed every aspect of the cycle so far, I think it will get very interesting from here on in, and continue through Asia, wow, what a prospect, I feel like a kid in a sweet shop not knowing which way to turn. Isn't travel the best!!!! I'll try and remember that when I'm caught short with some bug or bite when no doubt I shall be cursing like a good'un! See you in India.
Monday 24 September 2012
Friday 7 September 2012
Tbilisi in late summer
Still here in Tbilisi and will remain so for another couple of weeks. Met up with Steve, my old boss from Kazakhstan who is over here to spread his empire and open another office under the Veritas Brown/Cushman & Wakefield banner. I am going to assist though in what capacity I'm not sure; hence the reason for the extended stay. Meanwhile I am making the most of the late summer weather and have explored pretty much most locations, certainly in the central area. I am staying in a hostel just off Rustaveli Avenue; a mainly tree lined avenue which forms the main road through the city centre. The architecture along this avenue is generally striking, very attractive and European in feel and design. There is a lot of building activity taking place in and around the city. This appears to be on the back of considerable international 'investment' in recent years, mainly from Washington. Georgia really does appear to be open for business; no visas are required for many nationalities and apparently, it is the third easiest place in the world to start a business (behind New Zealand and A.N. Other) which is surprising given that it is ex Soviet Union where paper and stamps are needed in volumes and continue to be so in the Stans. There are a lot of Americans here, although the bulk of the tourists comprise Israelis and Polish.
The city offers the usual high street brands familiar in the UK including Next, Mothercare and Bata. For anyone visiting Tbilisi I have found the best patisserie/coffee shop and bookstore. Located on Rustaveli Avenue (well set back) beneath the Canadian Consulate (God's Country so it must be good!) stands Prospero's which also features an attractive outdoor courtyard. This is my morning pilgrimage and it's great. It's also a good meeting place and I have enjoyed several conversations with Americans over a French Press coffee. One in particular with a young lady called Camilla, a recently qualified Architect from DC who was so typically enthusiastic as most Americans are; a real delight. As I was taken for a German in Turkey, here I am taken for an American by the locals.
My time here has not simply been spent increasing my caffeine intake. I have been researching which route I should take next, definitely a process of elimination. Geographically I have hit something of an impass since I am unable to proceed through Iran. A great shame this, not simply because of the convenience and directness of route, but because I have heard nothing but positive and glowing tributes as to how beautiful the country is and how friendly and welcoming the people are. I have met several Iranians since arriving in Tbilisi, one couple are staying at my hostel, and they are charming, ready to extend a cordial invitation to stay with them if I ever got the chance to enter the country. The other factor apart from geography is cost. I'm afraid I don't have the luxury of too much time or bottomless pockets so this becomes a consideration.
I have looked into heading through the Stans, cycling up to Almaty, then flying to Delhi since by the time I hit Almaty, I think the winter would have kicked in, making crossing the Himalayas unlikely. The cost to get into Azerbaijan is $174, where I have to be to collect the various Stans visas. I estimate the cost on top of this (and it is certainly possible to get these visas) would be in excess of $500. Then an air flight on top plus living expenses etc. The other practical problem is that most likely I would only get a 5 day visa for Turkmenistan. It would be necessary for me to cycle across a desert of 476kms in that time to the Uzbek border and I'm not overly confident that these geriatric legs could do the job. It may sound that I am putting obstacles in the way, and I know it can be done as many others have done it. So my conclusion is that on leaving Tbilisi, I shall fly to Dubai and stay for a week, hopefully obtain my Indian visa and then fly on to Delhi. From Delhi I start pedaling hard and plan to cycle to Kolcutta along the north route into the tea plantation areas, plus of course visiting places like Varanasi. From there its into SE Asia proper where I will be able to gauge at first hand how best to access these countries; it appears that Bangkok will be the principal hub to collect a number of visas, but non should be difficult to obtain. Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam and China are all on the list.I then have a choice when I get to the South China Sea as to whether I keep turning left and heading north through China to South Korea and Japan, or take a right and drop into Australia but that decision is for later.So that is the game plan in outline, so by doing what I am doing to get to India, I am in effect only missing out on Iran and Pakistan (a big chunk I know).
So Dubai here we come!
The city offers the usual high street brands familiar in the UK including Next, Mothercare and Bata. For anyone visiting Tbilisi I have found the best patisserie/coffee shop and bookstore. Located on Rustaveli Avenue (well set back) beneath the Canadian Consulate (God's Country so it must be good!) stands Prospero's which also features an attractive outdoor courtyard. This is my morning pilgrimage and it's great. It's also a good meeting place and I have enjoyed several conversations with Americans over a French Press coffee. One in particular with a young lady called Camilla, a recently qualified Architect from DC who was so typically enthusiastic as most Americans are; a real delight. As I was taken for a German in Turkey, here I am taken for an American by the locals.
My time here has not simply been spent increasing my caffeine intake. I have been researching which route I should take next, definitely a process of elimination. Geographically I have hit something of an impass since I am unable to proceed through Iran. A great shame this, not simply because of the convenience and directness of route, but because I have heard nothing but positive and glowing tributes as to how beautiful the country is and how friendly and welcoming the people are. I have met several Iranians since arriving in Tbilisi, one couple are staying at my hostel, and they are charming, ready to extend a cordial invitation to stay with them if I ever got the chance to enter the country. The other factor apart from geography is cost. I'm afraid I don't have the luxury of too much time or bottomless pockets so this becomes a consideration.
I have looked into heading through the Stans, cycling up to Almaty, then flying to Delhi since by the time I hit Almaty, I think the winter would have kicked in, making crossing the Himalayas unlikely. The cost to get into Azerbaijan is $174, where I have to be to collect the various Stans visas. I estimate the cost on top of this (and it is certainly possible to get these visas) would be in excess of $500. Then an air flight on top plus living expenses etc. The other practical problem is that most likely I would only get a 5 day visa for Turkmenistan. It would be necessary for me to cycle across a desert of 476kms in that time to the Uzbek border and I'm not overly confident that these geriatric legs could do the job. It may sound that I am putting obstacles in the way, and I know it can be done as many others have done it. So my conclusion is that on leaving Tbilisi, I shall fly to Dubai and stay for a week, hopefully obtain my Indian visa and then fly on to Delhi. From Delhi I start pedaling hard and plan to cycle to Kolcutta along the north route into the tea plantation areas, plus of course visiting places like Varanasi. From there its into SE Asia proper where I will be able to gauge at first hand how best to access these countries; it appears that Bangkok will be the principal hub to collect a number of visas, but non should be difficult to obtain. Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam and China are all on the list.I then have a choice when I get to the South China Sea as to whether I keep turning left and heading north through China to South Korea and Japan, or take a right and drop into Australia but that decision is for later.So that is the game plan in outline, so by doing what I am doing to get to India, I am in effect only missing out on Iran and Pakistan (a big chunk I know).
So Dubai here we come!
Saturday 1 September 2012
A rainy night in Georgia!
Well thats the title of the song, different Georgia but the sentiments hold true. Wow, does it know how to rain here as well.
Its been about a week since leaving Trabzon and arriving here in Tbilisi. What two contrasting Countries which you notice almost immediately on crossing the border at Sarpi. Having become used to the semi arid conditions in Turkey and the cycling along dual carriageway' literally within 20kms the scenery becomes verdent green with species very familiar including ferns, lilac and avenues of Horse Chestnut which are now turning to their autumn plumage. Although the main road, it is single carriageway and the vegetation enroaches to roadside making you feel far more part of the landscape than the former dual carriageway. It is around 20 kms to the main border city of Batumi which lies on the coast and which is undergoing development although retains much of its former character of markets and street traders along pot holed roads. Inevitably these areas appear chaotic with taxis and mini buses fighting for space and passengers, the whole scene being further complicated by the traders themselves pushing carts of various size and description carrying an array of produce. Batumi has a familiar border town feel and you sense the proliferation of hotels lends more to visitors from over the border enjoying the delights of female Russian ladies of the night.
As opposed to Turkey where locals were very forthcoming in their salutations as I passed, in Georgia they are much more reserved and tend to watch you as you go by. The horns still sound but I quickly realised that the majority were either wanting me out of the way or in respect of vehicles ahead of them whom they wish to pass. In view of this rebalance and other factors, unless it is blatently obvious that a passing vehicle is 'making contact', I dont acknowledge any sound as I did in Turkey. Now a word about roads and driving. Well actually I could write a thesis on this and perhaps it deserves one. The driving here is unbelieveably bad, this is accentuated by the single carriageway that extends to some 15km west of Gori or 90kms from Tbilisi (from there it becomes dual carriageway with a decent shoulder to cycle along). The Turkish know how to build good roads, well I think so, here there is virtually no shoulder to ride on, if your lucky you get about a foot and all the while you are negotiating pot holes and tarmac ridges which can throw you all over the place. As for the driving, one thing I noted is how few women drive. That having been said the only rule of the road is that there are no rules! The drivers have I gear (very fast) and one aim and that is to get in front of the vehicle ahead whatever the cost. They have no brakes and drive right up to the vehicle in front announcing their presence with a horn. This is magnified both ways since it is not uncommon for 3 vehicles alongside each other coming towards me and two or three in line coming up behind me and who gives way is like a game of chicken. Must be a macho thing, I dont know but it does keep a cyclist on his or her toes thats for sure. This is further compounded by cows and pigs that freely graze along the roadside and will often wander across as they feel. You would think this would cause carnage but it doesn't' the only road casualties are dogs' a lot of them littered on the road and roadsideFrom my perspective and the way we drive it would take some time to adjust to the Georgian school of motoring but I guess they know how the others will react so it must work. But believe me they have no regard whatsoever for cyclists, they chop you up, cut across you, stop right in front of you as if you wern't there. The strange thing is that when you arrive at the dual carriageway, there is space and the horns stop and the driving seems much more controlled.
Departing Batumi I headed up the coast towards Poti. It was almost, but not quite like riding in England and unlike Turkey, the villages fronted right onto the road, the melon vendors gradually changed to pottery vendors. Poti itself is nothing to write home about, a spawling old style city again with the focus on the market street scene. I had ridden into the City and was struck by my 3rd puncture in almost as many days. 'Cynth', I said, 'this cannot go on'. Two fellers came over and since it was clear what was needed, they insisted on taking me to the bike shop. This was great since we had to wander through dirt streets either side of which were crowded tin, stone and concrete shops selling all sorts with displays on the road itself. Just about every square inch was used. Hens clucking and pigs squealing added to the contained mayhem as it was early morning and the women were out looking for the best produce on offer. I purchased a new tyre, not a top quality one by any means and I suppose I should have put that on the front and the good one on the back, but as I intend to put the wider tyres on either in Tbilisi or Baku I hoped that it would last the few hundred kilometers until then.
My route followed the main road, the only road from Poti to Tbilisi and passed through Kutaisi, a large city that has undergone a modern resurgence. It has a MacDonalds, not that that proves anything but at that particular time it was manna from heaven. Just as I arrived for breakfast, having spent the previous night in something resembling a shack (but it was quaint in its homespun way, the dry rot and damp adding to experience!), the heavens opened, and boy did they. A belter of a storm which continued unabated all day. The streets quickly flooded big time and i'll bet many ladies regretted putting on their dresses that day as the cars drove by them completely showering them head to foot! I was therefore in a bit of a dilemma; should I stay and stuff myself on chocolate shakes and coffee or go for it. I went for it and cycled the distance I needed to get to Zestaponi. It was unfortunate that I was told there was a hotel further in Kharaguili some 25kms distant. Well, there wasn't! The town stopped and turned into a dirt track and the police politely advised me to go back from whence I had arrived. So I did. I should learn that very few people know much about whats around outside a radius of 5 miles! With a better day following I made Gori. This was the mountain section, and starting my assent up to 1,400m encouraging Cynthia to get her finger out and push easy a van pulled up. I was offered a lift into the next town of Khashuri some 20 kms ahead. I took up the kind offer reckoning that I was owed a few kms from the previous day and also to gain a drivers perspective, well what perspective I could see looking through the very cracked windscreen! Well it was as I expected, drive as fast as you can, overtake on a sharp bend since nothing will be coming the other way, going down a 1:7 no dont brake, accelerate, but we got there fine and that drive saved me a day cycling so I was very grateful.
Gori is arguably the second city, its not bad either, much of the build is post world war two since the city had a tough time at that point. Gori is characterised by wide streets with some attractive architecture although inevitably during my sojourn across Georgia, it is clear that my favourite Russian architect has been unleashed in designing some really ugly industrial plants and high rise tenements clad in concrete and tin! How the Soviets put sputnicks up i'll never know!
The ride into Tbilisi was great, decent roads, ideal weather and we knocked off the 75kms in under 3 and a half hours averaging around 23 kms per hour, pretty good going. Into Tbilisi itself thr road was good and easy to find the centre, although the centre is effectively divided by the river. Some of the architecture is beautiful, especially the Government and Public Buildings and there is a good feel to the city. As you would expect all the major players are there including the big hotel chains, getting across the arterial roads is difficult, well crossing small roads is difficult as cars will not stop for you. I'm staying here for a while, this in part is enforced by my need to obtain an Azerbaijan Visa and also to meet my ex-boss Steve from Kazakhstan next thursday who is flying in as he is opening a new office. It will be great to catch up with him again. I have been advised that visas for Azerbaijan have been difficult to get for some reason. Sure it wont be a problem, hopefully not. My back up would be to bus it to Yereven, Armenia and pick up an Indian Visa, although if I have an Armenian stamp the Azerbaijanies wont let me in. Ahh the wonders of politics! Very confident it wll be ok though.
Found a hostel since prices here are very much more expensive than Turkey. The woman at the hostel (Waltzing Matilda) was as rude as you could possibly get, completey off hand and couldn't have cared less, refusing to let me bring Cynth into the building. Since it was late I decided to stay the night but having chucked my stuff in the room, went out to look for alternative accommodation. Found some nearby, and have a 4 bed dorm to myself, oh with balcony. Will do me fine. I will post the name of this place when I remember; but for those visiting Tbilis also look out for the Liberty Hostel; web page www.liberty-hostel.com . This is a clean and well priced place to stay if you are backpacking this way. That evening Greg, a Georgian lad who could speak perfect english was very apologetic and said I could immediately bring Cynthia from the deluge that was taking place out side. This morning I spoke with the owner, Tatiana who was also delightful and explained why I was leaving. Hopefully they can resolve the problem with this member of staff who clearly has issues and needs a thorough lesson in human relations. In my place at the moment is an Aussie called Justin, top bloke who only arrived last night. he has been travelling for 14 months and has some great experiences and a lot of information helpful to my progress. We went out today for something to eat and a few beers; well it was raining!! So coming up a bit of sightseeing, shopping, overhaul Cynth and sort out the visas, plenty on the go.
Oh as a final addition, I passed the 6,000 km mark, and have now cycled 6,087kms as I type. Will post as to progress on visas in due course. Cheers.
Its been about a week since leaving Trabzon and arriving here in Tbilisi. What two contrasting Countries which you notice almost immediately on crossing the border at Sarpi. Having become used to the semi arid conditions in Turkey and the cycling along dual carriageway' literally within 20kms the scenery becomes verdent green with species very familiar including ferns, lilac and avenues of Horse Chestnut which are now turning to their autumn plumage. Although the main road, it is single carriageway and the vegetation enroaches to roadside making you feel far more part of the landscape than the former dual carriageway. It is around 20 kms to the main border city of Batumi which lies on the coast and which is undergoing development although retains much of its former character of markets and street traders along pot holed roads. Inevitably these areas appear chaotic with taxis and mini buses fighting for space and passengers, the whole scene being further complicated by the traders themselves pushing carts of various size and description carrying an array of produce. Batumi has a familiar border town feel and you sense the proliferation of hotels lends more to visitors from over the border enjoying the delights of female Russian ladies of the night.
As opposed to Turkey where locals were very forthcoming in their salutations as I passed, in Georgia they are much more reserved and tend to watch you as you go by. The horns still sound but I quickly realised that the majority were either wanting me out of the way or in respect of vehicles ahead of them whom they wish to pass. In view of this rebalance and other factors, unless it is blatently obvious that a passing vehicle is 'making contact', I dont acknowledge any sound as I did in Turkey. Now a word about roads and driving. Well actually I could write a thesis on this and perhaps it deserves one. The driving here is unbelieveably bad, this is accentuated by the single carriageway that extends to some 15km west of Gori or 90kms from Tbilisi (from there it becomes dual carriageway with a decent shoulder to cycle along). The Turkish know how to build good roads, well I think so, here there is virtually no shoulder to ride on, if your lucky you get about a foot and all the while you are negotiating pot holes and tarmac ridges which can throw you all over the place. As for the driving, one thing I noted is how few women drive. That having been said the only rule of the road is that there are no rules! The drivers have I gear (very fast) and one aim and that is to get in front of the vehicle ahead whatever the cost. They have no brakes and drive right up to the vehicle in front announcing their presence with a horn. This is magnified both ways since it is not uncommon for 3 vehicles alongside each other coming towards me and two or three in line coming up behind me and who gives way is like a game of chicken. Must be a macho thing, I dont know but it does keep a cyclist on his or her toes thats for sure. This is further compounded by cows and pigs that freely graze along the roadside and will often wander across as they feel. You would think this would cause carnage but it doesn't' the only road casualties are dogs' a lot of them littered on the road and roadsideFrom my perspective and the way we drive it would take some time to adjust to the Georgian school of motoring but I guess they know how the others will react so it must work. But believe me they have no regard whatsoever for cyclists, they chop you up, cut across you, stop right in front of you as if you wern't there. The strange thing is that when you arrive at the dual carriageway, there is space and the horns stop and the driving seems much more controlled.
Departing Batumi I headed up the coast towards Poti. It was almost, but not quite like riding in England and unlike Turkey, the villages fronted right onto the road, the melon vendors gradually changed to pottery vendors. Poti itself is nothing to write home about, a spawling old style city again with the focus on the market street scene. I had ridden into the City and was struck by my 3rd puncture in almost as many days. 'Cynth', I said, 'this cannot go on'. Two fellers came over and since it was clear what was needed, they insisted on taking me to the bike shop. This was great since we had to wander through dirt streets either side of which were crowded tin, stone and concrete shops selling all sorts with displays on the road itself. Just about every square inch was used. Hens clucking and pigs squealing added to the contained mayhem as it was early morning and the women were out looking for the best produce on offer. I purchased a new tyre, not a top quality one by any means and I suppose I should have put that on the front and the good one on the back, but as I intend to put the wider tyres on either in Tbilisi or Baku I hoped that it would last the few hundred kilometers until then.
My route followed the main road, the only road from Poti to Tbilisi and passed through Kutaisi, a large city that has undergone a modern resurgence. It has a MacDonalds, not that that proves anything but at that particular time it was manna from heaven. Just as I arrived for breakfast, having spent the previous night in something resembling a shack (but it was quaint in its homespun way, the dry rot and damp adding to experience!), the heavens opened, and boy did they. A belter of a storm which continued unabated all day. The streets quickly flooded big time and i'll bet many ladies regretted putting on their dresses that day as the cars drove by them completely showering them head to foot! I was therefore in a bit of a dilemma; should I stay and stuff myself on chocolate shakes and coffee or go for it. I went for it and cycled the distance I needed to get to Zestaponi. It was unfortunate that I was told there was a hotel further in Kharaguili some 25kms distant. Well, there wasn't! The town stopped and turned into a dirt track and the police politely advised me to go back from whence I had arrived. So I did. I should learn that very few people know much about whats around outside a radius of 5 miles! With a better day following I made Gori. This was the mountain section, and starting my assent up to 1,400m encouraging Cynthia to get her finger out and push easy a van pulled up. I was offered a lift into the next town of Khashuri some 20 kms ahead. I took up the kind offer reckoning that I was owed a few kms from the previous day and also to gain a drivers perspective, well what perspective I could see looking through the very cracked windscreen! Well it was as I expected, drive as fast as you can, overtake on a sharp bend since nothing will be coming the other way, going down a 1:7 no dont brake, accelerate, but we got there fine and that drive saved me a day cycling so I was very grateful.
Gori is arguably the second city, its not bad either, much of the build is post world war two since the city had a tough time at that point. Gori is characterised by wide streets with some attractive architecture although inevitably during my sojourn across Georgia, it is clear that my favourite Russian architect has been unleashed in designing some really ugly industrial plants and high rise tenements clad in concrete and tin! How the Soviets put sputnicks up i'll never know!
The ride into Tbilisi was great, decent roads, ideal weather and we knocked off the 75kms in under 3 and a half hours averaging around 23 kms per hour, pretty good going. Into Tbilisi itself thr road was good and easy to find the centre, although the centre is effectively divided by the river. Some of the architecture is beautiful, especially the Government and Public Buildings and there is a good feel to the city. As you would expect all the major players are there including the big hotel chains, getting across the arterial roads is difficult, well crossing small roads is difficult as cars will not stop for you. I'm staying here for a while, this in part is enforced by my need to obtain an Azerbaijan Visa and also to meet my ex-boss Steve from Kazakhstan next thursday who is flying in as he is opening a new office. It will be great to catch up with him again. I have been advised that visas for Azerbaijan have been difficult to get for some reason. Sure it wont be a problem, hopefully not. My back up would be to bus it to Yereven, Armenia and pick up an Indian Visa, although if I have an Armenian stamp the Azerbaijanies wont let me in. Ahh the wonders of politics! Very confident it wll be ok though.
Found a hostel since prices here are very much more expensive than Turkey. The woman at the hostel (Waltzing Matilda) was as rude as you could possibly get, completey off hand and couldn't have cared less, refusing to let me bring Cynth into the building. Since it was late I decided to stay the night but having chucked my stuff in the room, went out to look for alternative accommodation. Found some nearby, and have a 4 bed dorm to myself, oh with balcony. Will do me fine. I will post the name of this place when I remember; but for those visiting Tbilis also look out for the Liberty Hostel; web page www.liberty-hostel.com . This is a clean and well priced place to stay if you are backpacking this way. That evening Greg, a Georgian lad who could speak perfect english was very apologetic and said I could immediately bring Cynthia from the deluge that was taking place out side. This morning I spoke with the owner, Tatiana who was also delightful and explained why I was leaving. Hopefully they can resolve the problem with this member of staff who clearly has issues and needs a thorough lesson in human relations. In my place at the moment is an Aussie called Justin, top bloke who only arrived last night. he has been travelling for 14 months and has some great experiences and a lot of information helpful to my progress. We went out today for something to eat and a few beers; well it was raining!! So coming up a bit of sightseeing, shopping, overhaul Cynth and sort out the visas, plenty on the go.
Oh as a final addition, I passed the 6,000 km mark, and have now cycled 6,087kms as I type. Will post as to progress on visas in due course. Cheers.
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