Well quite a last few days. Now in Thessaloniki with still a fair bit of the Country to cycle, but this seemed an appropriate pause to update. Stayed in Patras for 2 nights, it was the end of a heatwave so felt it sensible to see that out before hitting the trail. Decided to leave the hostel in Patras at 3am since that would give me time to cover some mileage before the sun rose and get across the bridge before the lorries off the morning ferry. My plans were partially stopped in their tracks by a rather charming Finnish lady whom I met on the hostel steps as I was loading the bike. It transpired that she had come down from Helsinki to try and help her daughter who livesin Patras and is a heroin addict. Its gets further complicated since the daughter has a 3 year old who lives with this lady in Finland. Trying to straighten out a teenager or 20 year old can be difficult at the best of times without the additional problems associated with this relationship. We chatted on the steps, well I listened; there is very little advice one can give in these circumstances but the lady was clearly approaching a crossroads as to whether to give all her attention to her grand-daughter and effectively disown her daughter.
I left at 4am and made reasonable time across the bridge and onto Itea which is a decent sized resort, very attractive, by late afternoon. I found a campsite at the end of the town which was family owned and having said I would rather spend my euros with them, they cooked up a superb mousaka with salad. I didn't realise beforehand that this was part of the family meal I was eating and felt awful at having done so. Such was the kindness I met along the way in Greece. The following day, I cycled to Lamia. This I knew was the hard part of the trip, across two mountain ranges. I had to push Cynthia the best part of 5 kilometers up the first one which was worse, and by chance, a pick up pulled in and offered me a lift of 8 kms to where he was turrning off. That 8kms took me over the summit and I reckon saved me the best part of 2 plus hours in the day, such is the way we cyclists think when attempting to get from A to B. The scenery was quite something, the first range opening up to a plateau, quite a vista and great to cycle around. Made Lamia around 2pm and having stopped for an hour, skirted around the right hand side of the city to a campsite, about 20 kms further on by the sea. Between the city and the site I rode through the industrial area which extended for about 5 kms. There were alot of factories and warehouses, all fairly recently built and with the exception of about 10% were either mothballed or left. Such is the obvious reminder as to the difficulties this country is facing, and was a scene that repeated itself through the towns and cities. Passing through villages, the cafes and tavernas are frequented by men with nothing to do, smoking (the national pastime) and playing cards; making a coffee and water last as long as possible.
The roads in Greece are not great in terms of getting from A to B. Well they are if you are not a cyclist. For much of my route it was necessary for me to use the motorway since it was the only game in town so to speak. All the locals said go ahead its ok, so armed with this local knowledge, I did. I picked up the main route between Athens and Thessaloniki and to be honest it was a joy to ride. Dual carriageway with a side apron of almost 8 feet which I kept within. No way would I have done this in Italy but here, there was virtually no traffic during the day, few cars and lorries and I wasn't getting in anyones way. I have seem more traffic on the M5 at Cullompton at 2am than during the day on this road; again perhaps another pointer as to whats happening in this country. Apart from the lack of freight; there are no tourists on the mainland, non at all. Between Patras and Thess I counted a couple of German plates and a handful of Dutch, thats it. It seems that most of the tourists head for the Islands for two weeks sex, sand and sea which sounds ok to me, but I really couldn't believe how few foreign tourists I have seen in Greece so far. So all quiet on the motorway; I'm humming a Coldplay song when a toll station hones into view. I wave and get called over. Well they charge 1.80 euros for a motorbike, what would they charge me for Cynth and I! Ah, by the tone of this operative he sounds like a traffic warden. Yep, a couple of sentences later my worst fears were confirmed, a jobsworth. He was in a mild panic since I dont think he had ever seen a bike on a motorway before, and gesticulated quite clearly that I was to get off. 'But where' I asked. He was confused, meanwhile a young Greek (30ish) with bimbo greek in tow put the horn on me. Not a good call on his behalf. I turned slowly and pointed my finger and waggled it at him, requesting him to be patient. Back to the jobsworth, he told me to leave the motorway a kilometer distant; he wasnt interested where the road went to, or where I had to get to, he just wanted me out the way. The horn sounded again, this time accompanied by an arm movement, translated as get on with it! I got off Cynthia and having taken something of a dislike to this person in the car, started walking towards him giving him the look. Jobsworth then shouted and waved me through. I remounted Cynth (not easy on a full load!) and set off though the barrier. Unfortunately, he hadnt lifted the barrier and I whipped around the side, setting off all the alams; I just kept going picking up on where I had got to with my Coldplay song.
Some 40-50kms further up the motorway (of course I didn't turn off) I noted the motorway patrol behind me, they followed for a bit and so I pulled in and they drew alongside. The traditional good day greetings in Greek were expressed and fortunately the guy could speak perfect English. He explained that cyclists shouldn't use the motorway and I replied that this was the only route to get where I needed to go and that if there was an alternative I would take it. The road running parallel, the old road was fine except where the new motorway cut across it and effectively truncated any further progress. He took this on board. He rang his mate and then basically told me to get off at the next turn since his boss was 20kms behind and that if I didn't get off the road, his arse would be on the line. I was fully seized of this dilemma and he was great, in fact he recognised that common sense should prevail and that I should continue but as he said, 'Rules are rules'. He guided me off and sent me 30 kms to Volos suggesting I stay there for the night. We parted in a very friendly manner, but of course he recognised that where I needed to go the following day I would have to get back onto the motorway. How Greek is this! Volos was the highlight of the places passed through in Greece so far. Fabulous waterfront, lovely city definately worth a stay.
The following day, true to form, I was back on the motorway, this time no problems. It is definately safer to cycle on the motorway for reasons outlined above and because the A roads near towns are more busy; bus drivers are a nightmare as are women who suddenly open there door not looking or expecting to see a cyclist on their bow! The road surfaces are also badly maintained; pot holes, uneven surfaces and tarmac mounds everywhere with only about a couple of feet to cycle in, the leeway compared with the motorway isn't enough. I have not seen a single cyclist since being in Greece. Well that's not quite correct, I've seen fellers around 20 wearing designer gear promenading along the sea fronts on a bike and a few mature ladies doing the shopping who look to have melons in their basket; well either that or gravity has been very cruel to them and a basket is the only container that will hold them!! But the real problem cycling is dogs. They are a major problem from just about every angle. This is the first European country where I have experienced the number of dogs that chase you either leaping out of the side road, or from wherever. This has happened to me on a daily basis, fortunately, where I felt a real risk of being bitten (and they do) I was on a downslope and fresh so could outrun them. One car overtook me, saw a dog and looked like it deliberately swerved to get it out the way to allow me safe passage. On the way into Thess, in a village one dog chased me forgot it was on a lead and was physically pulled back in the air when the lead ran out. A Dutch family told me they had been harrassed by a dog, well therir youngest daughter had and that they would think carefully about returning to Greece again. Now lets get this thing into perspective; Greece faces many acute financial and economic challenges that way surpass anything else; but there is no doubt that the dog issue is important if they want tourism to grow; or at least sustain what the have. I hold a few stones in my pocket and have a cycle security steel rope with padlock on the end which I take out and whirl something like a mace. I do not and would not hesitate to use any method to protect myself and would unhesitatingly do serious damage to any mut that tried it on. I expect to get bitten but believe me given half a chance I will beat the crap out of any dog that attacks me. I have spoken to a few locals as to what the best ploy is in this situation; they are unanimous: Stop the bike, don't swerve into the road where you might get hit by a car, take the bite if you have to (they will bite) and 'kick the shit out of them'. Apart from wrap around glasses to prevent dust going into my eyes, I wish I had a taser, as I think 50,000 volts up a dogs arse would pull them up a bit lively. It is a problem, I've not faced this anywhere in Europe before (you expect it further east) and its one tourists will not put up with. They are dangerous and cause accidents, I've cycled passed quite a few dead ones at the roadside. What to do about the problem: Cull the lot, and also to those who belong to people who don't look after them. hit them also with a heavy fine if they cause an accident!
Right, rant out the way, when you are constantly looking around you for dogs, it does take away the enjoyment of travelling through a country. The situation is bad though.
Well I thought I had had my fill of jobsworth's earlier in the day, but while parked up in a garage about 20 kms from Volos the following incident beat all. Relaxing in the shade, all of a sudden this policeman walks by, discharges a bag on the adjoining table and turns around to inspect Cynth. I said nothing, expecting the ususal ;where are you from?' etc., but no, this guy looked at me and pointed saying 'rear light'. 'Yes and',
'You have one and its not on" came the reply in an accusational tone that suggested I was about to heist the garage. I sensed that this chap had either been the subject of bullying at school or had never been appointed milk monitor!
'Well if you look I have 3 rear lights', getting up to point them out,'plus a front light and 8 reflectors on the panniers. I havent got them on as I'm parked and its 3.30pm with a full on sun'.
No answer, but he walked around the bike. I appraised him, about 5'8' , 30ish and developing a pot belly. I felt that I could probably beat him over a 150 yard dash as I couldn't see him lasting much more, and he stood no chance against an 18 year old so it was a good job he had a gun, as that seemed the only conceivable way any robber would be apprehended. I began to panic at his rapier like grasp as to my explaination of the lights. His ability to sum up a situation and demonstrate a complete lack of credible thought reminded me of a Labour politician; this was a frightening situation since I had no idea how he might react. Lets not think, lets just do it seemed to be an appropriate mantra! Certainly one out of the Gordon Brown/Ed Balls school of governance. His mate then rolled up in the squad car, and without any acknowledgement got in and drove off. Surreal!
Thessaloniki is the 2nd city in Greece; a major tourist hub and link with many of the islands having a commercial port. I arrived at 4pm found the cetre which is always where I head for in a large city. A star of a policeman directed me to the Tourist Information Office which I found was closed. Ok, so its the middle of the afternoon, that's fine. Closer observation confirmed that being a Saturday, the office shut at 3pm and would remain so until 9am Monday. Great, just dandy, but I'm extremely fortunate, I have a Liz. Every traveller wants and needs a Liz. Liz is my sister, a real gem in every way, she is a 100% star. I texted her, and within minutes she had replied with a list of places to stay in budget. No worries. I took a walk along the seafront last evening, very nice but its no Portofino, Nice or Cannes though from the pricing structure of beer it has pretentions to be so. From the very brief snapshot I have had so far of this country, the people are superb, lovely, but you do get the sense that the Country needs to pull its socks up and get organised. The roadsides are dirty and there just seems a lack of pride somehow. Understandable I suppose given their acute problems, they cannot be expected to solve everything at once. But I hope whatever steps they take they work; the people deserve that.
Still have a fair bit of cycling to do in Greece, but the shine has gone a bit and I am now looking towards Istanbul. Dont think I will be making a return visit to Greece anytime soon, not with France, Italy and Spain as immediate options.
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